Happy International Women’s Day

“Take a good look around you” the professor’s voice boomed in the cavernous amphitheater, awash with 700 faces expectantly looking back at him. “No, look around you”, he persisted. Hesitantly we looked at each other, not knowing what to expect. “Most of you are women”, he continued. “Psychology is a study favored by women. And yet, when the time comes for a PhD, statistics will be against you. Based on your numbers, most PhD positions should be acquired by women. But when the time comes, they will be given to your few fellow male students remaining.” The professor was not trying to crush our dreams and hopes; he was just talking numbers.

Today we celebrate women’s day. But what have we really achieved? For this topic, so close to my heart, I wish I could write a thoughtful article to express all that I want today. Yet with a deadline for yet another draft for my thesis looming for tomorrow, all I can do is to offer a few short thoughts, or rather pleas, lacking in eloquence but heartfelt nonetheless.

Please remember today, that even though we have achieved a spot in the workplace, we’ve only managed to climb only as high as middle-management while upper middle-management and high management positions are still dominated by men. The glass ceiling is still there, as impenetrable as ever. Please remember, that even though we’ve managed to narrow the pay gap, we haven’t even come close to bridging it, with pay differences ranging from 10 to more than 40 percent. And yes, these statistics refer to Western societies. Please remember that when a woman does manage to attain a managerial position, she will often be demonized and hated, not only by her male but also her female colleagues. Inciting hatred, she will be labeled anything from “Dragon” to “Iron-Lady”. Please remember that women are still passed over for promotions and partnerships, even when they have equal or better skills and work history than men.

Lastly, perhaps most importantly, please remember to be kind. Be kind to the woman next to you. If we continue to be divided, we’ll always be conquered. I am proud to be studying under the team of researchers who showed, in 2004, that in our struggle to stand out, in our desperate fight to claim a better future for ourselves as individuals, we tend to try to dissociate and differentiate ourselves so much from our fellow women that we actually end up stereotyping and encumbering our fellow women even more than men do. Don’t let this be yet another weapon that will be used against us. If you take anything from this rushed, yet heartfelt post of mine, please take this with you: Be kind to your fellow woman. Help her achieve her goals. Please remember, that true change is yet to come. We’ve got to achieve it together.

Kabuki by Tokyo Milk : Perfume Review

Tokyo Milk, just like Bloom Essentials Archive and Lollia is a line created by Margot Elena Wells. Although Lollia, with its romantic feminine appeal already found considerable success (it made it twice in the list of Oprah’s favorite things and was claimed to be one of her favorite gift ideas), it was with her latest line, Tokyo Milk, that Margot Elena piqued the interest and won the hearts of perfume lovers. And that’s no surprise: unlike the dainty, accessible image of Lolia and its focus on floral and fruity notes, Tokyo Milk’s image is edgy and esoteric, a niche curiosity. The scents too have turned quirkier, with notes such as tobacco, woods, teas and spices enhancing the modern blends with an idiosyncratic charm that’s most definitely hard to resist for those of us always on the lookout for something new and fresh to smell.

I’ve smelled about half of the line’s fragrances and they have all, without exception, been extremely gregarious and brash, bringing their message across at full steam. Subtlety and balance is clearly not something that is being aimed for with this line, but while this might sound like harsh critique, it is actually not meant that way: Tokyo Milk’s perfumes have a particular kind of charm and these characteristics seem intended, an attitude that seems to say “I don’t take myself too seriously, but I am terribly charming, aren’t I? Go on then, buy me for a bit of fun, won’t you?”. Given their character, their image and their cheeky charisma, I get the feeling that while many of these have the potential to be hits with older perfume lovers as well (e.g., Poe’s Tobacco for tobacco lovers/collectors), the line will, as a general rule, be more popular with the younger crowd.

Unfortunately, while these are relatively cheap in the USA (either in boutiques where they are sold or via e-tailers), they are quite hard to find here in Europe and more extravagantly priced to boot. I was lucky enough to come across a big sale while in London this past summer, where all of the brand’s perfumes were being sold for about 7 GBP instead of the usual 35 (!! - about 53 USD). The line features many gourmands and since I was at the peak of my vanilla love-affair at the time I had great fun playing around trying to choose one. In the end I went for Kabuki, an exceptionally unique, playful and (perhaps too) youthful scent. The longevity isn’t great (about 3 hours) but the scent makes up for it with its upbeat personality. Kabuki is a rather linear scent featuring a soft, velvety vanilla backdrop full of innocence upon which the other notes seemingly explode. The opening is very citrusy, smelling like an overdose of crunchy white sugar drenched with lemon juice and decorated with the aromatic shavings of the rind. It might seem bizarre that I list the white sugar as a note and even more so that I call it ‘crunchy’ of all things, but yes, Kabuki does smell like sugar and manages to translate the texture as well. Having been a mischievous child who used to cut a lemon in half, dip it in sugar and suck on it until my lips were puckered and red to my parents’ amusement, I feel justified to attest to the realism of this interpretation! Cutting down the sugary-sweet feel of the scent, the addition of bitter grapefruit notes bring a modicum of balance, as well as bringing a sense of maturity to the otherwise playful appeal of the perfume. While I can’t quite make out the purported jasmine notes, Kabuki truly has a very pronounced lychee note and an extremely realistic one at that. I can’t help but think of spring when I smell this scent, perhaps because its happy, exuberant personality is so efficient in bringing across that ‘not a care in the world’ feel the optimistic air of spring always brings in my heart. While this is completely unsuitable for those that don’t like sweet scents (it is very sugary) those that enjoy gourmands should definitely give it a try. While it is undoubtedly sweet in the most toothsome manner, it is quite light and not heavy or overbearing. Wear without fear, even when the weather is warm.

Images: www.wikipedia.org and www.tropicalfruitnursery.com

Perfumed Quotes: Christopher Ash

"It always reminds me of a cool English wood in spring, and the scent you smell when you tear up the moss to uncover the dark soil underneath."

-Christopher Ash, Whaler's Eye. (Referring to the scent of ambergris)

Apple & Cinnamon and Enchanted Night by Brise : Scented Candle Reviews

In this blog I’ve reviewed perfumes cheap and expensive, rare as well as common, never hesitated between the revered and the reviled and took pleasure in declaring my love even for those that were once well loved but now mocked by many (hello Joop!). But I have to tell you, I’ve been feeling quuuuuite sheepish about reviewing the cheapies I’m about to put under the spotlight today. In fact, I’ve debated with myself about it for more than a week already, often contemplating the eternal “But what will my readers think!?”. Silly huh? So anyway, as you see, I got over my inhibitions, cause I remembered you all love good scents as much as I do. I knew this couldn’t go wrong!

So, the subject matter today is cheap-thrill candles and I’ve chosen my two favorites: Brise Apple & Cinnamon and Brise Enchanting Night. If you’ve had bad run-ins with Johnson’s Glade/Brise products in the past, trust me, I completely understand. Not all of the line’s candles are created equal. In fact I’ve had my share of gag-worthy moments (I’m looking at you I Love You candle) with some of them. I think the line fails miserably when it comes to exuberant, fresh, fruity and fruity-floral smells altogether in fact. But the real surprise is how good it does gourmand, oriental and woody scents: real good. Exceptionally so, trust me. Two of my absolute favorites are Apple & Cinnamon (sold as Pomme & Cannelle in most European countries) and Enchanting Night.

Apple & Cinnamon is the candle I always, always have at home and my trusty standby for all those occasions when I invite people over for coffee or tea. I light it about an hour before my guests arrive and by the time they come in the whole house smells as though I’ve been diligently slaving over the oven to produce the perfect apple pie. It creates the warmest atmosphere and feels absolutely cozy and inviting. Importantly, it always manages to extract spontaneous compliments on how good the house smells. The scent is not only gourmand but beautifully spicy as well - aside from the obvious cinnamon it features a rich clove note that brings to mind festive winter treats.

Enchanting Night on the other hand is more of a private pleasure for me - I light it just for myself when I want to indulge in a quiet evening at home. The scent is probably my favorite in the line for it smells exactly how I wish my house would always smell: private, familiar, sexy. Enchanting Night indeed has an incredibly sensual scent, but the genius of it is that even though it has potent throw and as such adequately perfumes the area, it does so thoughtfully, quietly. It might sound like a contradiction, but yes, the scent it produces is both potent and subdued. How to explain this better? I guess what I mean to say is that it’s never in your face: you can pay attention to it if you like, or you can just ignore it and go about your business, only to notice it again later when it suddenly dawns on you how good the house smells. The actual smell is like an overdose of coumarin (think of newly mown hay and tonka bean sweetness) with beautiful, subtle accents of violet. Oh yes, you see now why this is totally me! Even more attractive is its heavy musky base which smells very much like the musks used in Gaultier’s Fleur du Male.

These candles burn beautifully and cleanly to the very end. They never smoke and I’ve never had to tediously trim their wicks. They just do their own thing and they do it well, and they do it for the cost of no more than four euro, no less. My only complaint is that since a few years ago SC Johnson decided to change the appearance of the pots and partnered up with Sleever International to produce the new designs, which change seasonally (well, at least here in Europe - I believe the U.S. candle holders look different). I am not impressed. I might be burning a cheap candle, but I sure don’t want it to look like I’m burning a cheap candle and these designs are… well. Let’s just say they don’t do it for me. I much preferred the old, clean, simple candle-holders. But alright, I’ll forgive you, Johnson, if only you bring the Pumpkin Pie and the Vanilla scent here in little Holland too! Will you? Please?

Do you have any favorite cheap candles? Most importantly, do they have a good throw? Before I discovered these I always considered cheap candles as worthless, cause nothing seemed to have the power to scent a room and only smelled good in the pot before lighting it… If you have any suggestions, please let me know!

Images: www.scjohnson.be and www.sxc.hu

Royal Water by Creed : Perfume Review

It’s normally hit or miss with me and Creed, but to be honest, I didn’t know what to make of this one at first. I doubt I would have given this the time of day had I just sniffed on a blotter; Royal Water takes its sweet time to unfold to its full splendor and the skin’s warmth makes the perfect catalyst. Still, I’ll tell you it is not an easy perfume to love: Royal Water can’t decide on its gender, daydreams endlessly (not pointlessly however!) before it reaches its destination, can’t make up its mind on whether it is cool or warm and generally teases the wearer endlessly. And yet, instead of finding it insufferable, I find myself inexplicably charmed. Do you know… the feeling is not unlike being manipulated by a talented lover with a sinister touch that knows exactly how to stroke a body while refusing to let it climb over the edge. You understand then, this is a perfume that gets better and better with time. The question is, do you have the patience?

The opening is old fashioned and rather severe, a true eau full of citrus. Along with lemon, the official notes list green mandarins and clementines which would have you expect something altogether juicier and perhaps sweet, however this is an exceptionally dry perfume. After this entirely neutral, unisex blast of clean freshness Royal Water takes a rather unexpected turn, slowly manifesting itself as a beautiful classic fougère, gentlemanly and proper. Undeniably green (yet never aggressively so), the fern theme is interpreted with astute perfection. The perfume’s cool, indifferent character is underscored by a peppermint note which adds superbly to its blasé attitude. I know peppermint is a make-or-break note for many but I will vouch for the fact that here it is rendered very carefully and only serves to add a frosty undercurrent, never once screaming for individual attention. I get not a single whiff of the resinous green warmth from the purported juniper berries in the heart notes: Royal Water continues to be aloof and cool as a cucumber even as it progressively has the completely opposite effect on me - cool and aloof it might be, but it keeps on intensifying, slowly changing and I find myself slightly breathless, awaiting the outcome… Which is mysterious in and of itself, for this is not my type of perfume at all! What is this perfume laced with, anyway?! Again, this strange scent takes me by surprise by suddenly gender-bending its way to femininity as it quiets down to a mysterious softness. From ferny green coolness, Royal Water has transformed to gentle ambers, spices and sexy musks, touched by a whisper of something that smells indistinctly floral and improbably feminine. Despite these warm notes the perfume still somehow manages to retain its exceptionally dry character - how, I don’t know. Regardless, it refuses to show even the slightest sign of sweetness or fullness. This in essence is the theme that ties all the changes Royal Water undergoes together: Despite how different it smells now, its beautiful, haughty dryness disallows it from succumbing to throwing away the mask of cool detachment, despite its obvious climactic arousal. In this respect I can imagine this perfume would be worn beautifully by a woman to compliment a provocative outfit or lustful curves, for it denotes an air of unavailability, thus making it a perfect balancing factor. Having said that, it can just as easily (and beautifully) be worn by a man. One word of warning however: don’t let this one be sprayed on clothes: the cumin note which remains rather quiet (and only apparent in the drydown) on the skin manifests itself fiercely on fabric and lingers, smelling rather sweaty and unpleasant as cumin often tends to do.

Note: I was sent this sample by Essenza Nobile, where it is sold for 125 E (75ml). To visit the Essenza Nobile webshop click here.

Images: Royal Water bottle via www.creedfragrances.co.uk and fern via Flickr by Nick Coombe

R.I.P Alexander McQueen

May Alexander McQueen's soul rest in peace. His really was a star that burnt brightly.. There are many talented designers out there, but only a few have that strange IT, that supreme genius that sets them appart like a Dior, like a Laurent... Alexander McQueen had that IT. I can't believe I won't get to see his house become what I expected it to become in years to come, a brand as established as Dior! Fashion has lost a prince today.

May you rest in peace, Lee McQueen.

Miyabi Sample Winner

Heeeeeeylo everyone! It's been a bit slow this week cause I have to turn in the first draft of my thesis intro to my supervisor, but there is definitely another review coming this week, probably on Friday. Anyhoo, the winner of the Miyabi sample is Chris G! Please send me an email with your details and I'll send the sample along with some other goodies!

Mwah!

Divina

*Results attained through random.org's list randomizer function

Miyabi Woman by Annayake : Perfume Review & Draw

I’ve got something special for you today, something I’m quite excited about - the first review of Annayake’s newest fragrance, Miyabi! There’s a history of paying attention to this brand here on Fragrance Bouquet and I’m glad to have been able to have access to the perfumes in order to provide you with what I hope is a rather comprehensive picture of the entire line. So, the moment this became available here I procured a small quantity for review.

The news of these new perfumes’ release (one for men and one for women) broke out a while ago, but perhaps a less known fact about them is that their release is a celebratory mark for the brand’s 10-year anniversary. The gorgeous identical bottles (black and silver for him and ivory and gold for her), so elegant and at the same time easy and restful on the eyes, are meant to be a modern interpretation of the inkpot and brush, thus paying homage to the brand’s Japanese identity by evoking the art of calligraphy. The boxes in turn, are meant to evoke fusuma, the sliding rectangular vertical panels that separate interior spaces in traditional Japanese houses. The name -Miyabi- on the other hand, is harder to decipher: often interpreted by westerners as “elegance” or “elegance in beauty”, miyabi is in fact a highly complex construct, heavily influenced by culture. As such, it is very difficult - if not impossible- to offer a satisfactory translation. Without diverging too much from the topic, I will attempt to offer a brief explanation. Miyabi refers most notably to perfection, as in perfection in color, beauty, form and balance. Inherent in this notion however, is always the concept of transience - the passage of time itself. When it comes to a person, miyabi refers to their refinement and specifically their refinement of taste, their ability to discern elegance in everyday objects and to subsequently derive pleasure from them.

Now on to the perfumes themselves. As with most of the masculine perfumes in the Annayake lineup, I have to report that Miyabi Man is, in my opinion subpar. With notes of sandalwood and tonka in the base and sumptuous spices in the heart I imagined this would be a beautiful oriental but unfortunately the experience was that of a generic fresh masculine. Perhaps it is the cucumber freshness of the violet leaves that so put me off in my brief test and perhaps I should give it another try, but reader, I had to scrub this one off fast. Hence my focus only on Miyabi Woman today in any case, which I’ve been testing for a week now and which I am quite enamored with.

In my impression, this is a rather strange perfume in the sense that it does not follow the classic pyramid structure. Top notes for example, seem to be entirely absent: Miyabi instantly plunges the senses in a deep, velvety cocoon of softness. But Miyabi does not fit the bill of a linear perfume either. Its changes, albeit incremental are certainly discernible. Let me diverge for a moment however in order to give you a really good picture of this perfume. When I last visited Paris and had my first encounter with Paris-Moscou, I felt like this was one of the most unique gourmand perfumes I’d ever smelt. I was completely taken (and taken aback) with this incredibly fluffy, soft-as-clouds note that instantly made me think of a marshmallow (click here for my original description). Yes, I am still desperately in love with Paris-Moscou, I still think it is one of the best soft gourmands out there. But… it is not quite as unique as I thought it was. I’d never smelled a Britney Spears perfume till this summer, but something possessed me this past July while waiting at an airport terminal somewhere and I gave her Fantasy a try. Lo and behold, the beautiful marshmallow note, fluffy and sweet. Not nearly as refined as the Guerlain, definitely the drugstore version, but the note was there. Apparently, Guerlain didn’t quite get there first. Fast forward to yet another airport where I smelled Kenzo’s airport exclusive, 5:40 PM In Madagascar. That note again! Please be aware that I am not claiming all these fragrances are twins, just that they all contain this extremely compelling, beautiful new note that suddenly seems to be proliferating and that they all seem to be focused in highlighting it significantly. You obviously see by now where I am going with this… Yes, Miyabi is built around this note. This beautiful, mysterious note that smells of gorgeous whipped vanilla and fluffy, soft marshmallows. For the first hour or so of the development, it is beautifully supported by fragrant peach and an indistinct flowery mélange which is in turn hardened (read: balanced) by smoky cedar. As time goes by, the fragrance mellows as the tonka and ambery base notes come through more distinctively. The volume of the fragrance also drops considerably, radiating more quietly from the skin. Slowly, it transforms to a sweet woody aura, hugging the skin with sandalwood and musk. When considered as part of the lineup, it has to be said that Miyabi diverges considerably from the house style. The rest of the fragrances seem to have a clarity and translucency (even when the type of perfume would not lead you to expect such, e.g. a lactonic gourmand) that this one lacks. However the fact that it incorporates one of my favorite new notes (almost certainly a new aromachemical which produces this mysterious fluffy, vanilla-marshmallow effect) and that it does so elegantly, makes me enamored with it. The end result is a comforting yet peculiar, in other words interesting and delightful at once, at least if you are a gourmand lover. Lovers of Kenzo’s Amour and 5:40 PM In Madagascar and fans of Guerlain’s Paris-Moscou should definitely give this one a try.

Annayake has a rather limited distribution and never even makes it to certain countries such as the US, so I am offering a sample draw. If you are interested, simply leave a comment and you’ll be automatically included. Winner to be announced in a week’s time, next Wednesday.

Images: Fusama screens via Wikipedia and marshmallows via Flickr by John-Morgan

Gardénia Pétale by Van Cleef & Arpels (Collection Extraordinaire) : Perfume Review

Recently (this past September to be exact), Van Cleef & Arpels, the Haute Joaillerie house which caters, more than any other, to the unuttered wishes hidden in the secret fantasy garden of women’s hearts, launched a collection of six, uber exclusive fragrances. Titled Collection Extraordinaire and inspired by haute couture, this collection is meant to embody luxury and refinement. Following the footsteps of other luxury, high-end, hard to find, exclusive collection releases (Prada, Chanel) this line too is presented coherently in simple (yet luxuriously heavy) bottles with discreet black caps. Unsurprisingly (when considering the tactics used by the aforementioned brands), Van Cleef & Arpels too chose to retain the exclusivity and to preserve Collection Extraordinare’s recherché quality by making it quite hard to come by: It is only sold at Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques as well as very select retailers and exclusive web-boutiques. I got my sample from Essenza Nobile, which offers the entire collection (131 euro for 75ml). According to Van Cleef & Arpels, exquisite care and attention has been put into each perfume in the line, with the best raw materials chosen for each. Further, each perfume in this collection has been created by a different nose. Gardénia Pétale, which I am reviewing today, was created by Nathalie Feisthauer (Eau de Merveilles, Putain de Palaces, Nombril Immense).

If proof of God can be found in nature, in the world of flora gardenia surely embodies all the glory. To me, there is no flower that smells as magical, as surely transcendental and heavenly. Each time I smell one of the creamy-colored blossoms I can feel the exalted, breathtaking scent commanding awe and wonderment inside me. Befittingly to this holy glory, gardenia's scent is notoriously hard to reproduce in a perfume. The only one I’d so far encountered (and believe me, I’ve smelled them all, from Cruel Gardenia to Kai and from Issabey’s Gardenia to Matin d’Orage) that was worthy of the name was Ava Luxe’s Gardenia Rain. Now here comes another: Gardénia Pétale.

I won’t lie to you: Gardénia Pétale does not mimic the scent of gardenias in the conventional sense, nor does it present its gardenia facet in all the stages of its development. However when the gardenia accord does surface, it is true and magical. Magical enough to make my heart skip a beat, yes. Gorgeous, beautiful and glorious enough to make me smile wide to myself, yes. (Thank you ms. Feisthauer, you’re a genius!) Gardénia Pétale’s opening is fresh with citrus and bittersweet with orange water, turning quite pungent as notes of petitgrain and heady neroli emerge. This high-pitched, sunny warmth is soon tempered with green notes that bring with them a barely-there, almost aqueous edge that leave a sense of coolness on the skin. I’ll admit that when I tested Gardénia Pétale for the first time, this stage tested my patience - where was the promised gardenia? Surely I wasn’t to be placated with another (albeit excellent) orange blossom scent? Soon, jasmine and tuberose join the chorus. The jasmine is excellent: rich and natural, its indolic heart underscored by exotic ylang-ylang. And then, just when you think you understand this perfume, just when you think, oh this is just another gardenia approximation, comprised out of a beautiful bouquet of white flowers, beautiful, but no gardenia… She comes. Dazzlingly beautiful and effulgent, her procession is slow, like that of a princess bride. Her smile, full of promise. What a scent… It’s a true gardenia that brings you to your knees and what’s genius about it, is that Nathalie Feisthauer has managed to capture not only the beautiful antagonism between velvety softness and heady animalism of the flower, but also its heart, full of spiciness. Have you ever felt that spicy scent tingle your nose when deeply inhaling the scent of a gardenia? That peppery piquancy that words fail, simply because there is no known spice which approximates its scent? Well, it’s there. And all I can say is WOW. I know, how crude a word for such an elegantly composed perfume. But truly - WOW. The patience is rewarded, not only does Gardénia Pétale finally smell like a true gardenia, its scent is not fleeting either. It will linger on the skin forever giving you hours of gardenia bliss. From here on, the perfume does not change much: a little nectarous, honeysuckle sweetness emerges to underscore the warmth of the Diva, but it remains otherwise unchanged. I haven’t yet smelled the rest of the fragrances in Collection Extraordinaire, but if Gardénia Pétale is anything to go by, the price does not seem exorbitant at all, especially when the quality and the exclusivity are taken into consideration. Simply beautiful.

Images: Gardenia in black and white via Flickr by Gilberto Santa Rosa

Perfume in the Media: Pushing Daisies

I’m not sure if you’re familiar with the series called “Pushing Daisies”. For me, this sadly already finished show (it lasted two seasons) has been a recent discovery. The concept of this black comedy show is quirky (a pie maker who can bring people back to life with a touch of his finger solves crimes) but what is most charming about it is its style. With bright, gorgeous Technicolor sets that are as beautifully suburban and bizarre as those of Stepford Wives (with costumes to match) and a narration style that brings to mind Amelie’s innocence and magic, watching Pushing Daisies is definitely an escape.

If you haven’t watched this show I definitely recommend it. But what does a post about Pushing Daisies have to do with a perfume blog? Well, yesterday night I caught episode 7 of season 1, titled “The Smell of Success” and found that to my surprise, the entire episode was devoted to perfume, scents and the sense of olfaction! Concepts such as perfume’s connection to memories and feelings come up throughout, as do the subjects of perfume-book publishing, perfume expertise and indoles, of all things…! Of course, where real perfume and olfaction facts are concerned the episode is full of inaccuracies and embellishments, but that does not take away from the fun. If you, like me, delight in finding storylines connected to perfume in books and film, do try to catch this episode - it is really, really fun to watch. In fact I recommend the whole series. I’ve found it’s a major de-stressor, it always leaves me with a good feeling!

Images: via en.wikipedia.org

Another Perfume Ruined : Harem by LR

While in Greece for the Christmas holidays I decided to order one more bottle of LR’s Harem, seeing as my bottle was just about finished. The LR representative brought me a new bottle a couple of days later, and as soon as I opened it I knew something was up: the color was different. Nevertheless, I thought I’d give it try, thinking that maybe it was just a very new batch and hadn’t darkened yet - which was not such an unreasonable thought considering that patchouli-heavy perfumes often darken considerably with age. Nope, the perfume has changed. And I do not mean it has just been tweaked either. No, this is a case of body-snatching: there is simply no similarity between the two at all. From fruity mandarin and chocolate-patchouli sumptuousness it has gone to an ambery-musky concoction, which, although not altogether unpleasant, smells cheap and common.

Drenched in cold sweat and feeling quite desperate (Harem has become one of my all-time favorites and I consider it a GEM), I called the representative and told her that the perfume had been changed and asked if it would be possible to find me some of the remaining old bottles. She told me she did not think it had been changed, as she had not heard anything about it. She promised however, to enquire about any old bottles she could find. A few days later, I received a call from her. Yes, unfortunately the perfume had been changed, her supervisor had confirmed it. Also he had five bottles left of the old one and did I still want them? Did I? I ordered all five.

I do not understand why LR has changed their bestseller and replaced it with this cheap, ridiculous juice. Harem was sensual, velvety, deep, lightly powdery, delicious, comforting, generously decadent, SEXY... Why change it? In any case, this post is meant to be a warning for those of you planning to buy this based on my review of the original, and for everyone else who lands on my original review in the future. I am going to edit that review and post an update there as well, so that no one is misled into buying this utterly changed, radically different scent. I have five bottles now so I am not all that worried about running out, however knowing that there will be countless lovers of this scent disappointed and unable to procure it again makes me SO mad. Bring it back LR! We can smell the difference!

Image: Flickr by Darwin Bell

Geranium pour Monsieur by Frederic Malle : Perfume Review

Happy New Year everyone! I am hijacking the first part of this review to thank you all for your lovely wishes and the warmth you’ve shown me through your messages in the past month after my attack. I am fine now. I spent three days in bed, not really wanting to travel to Greece - I was so down I didn’t feel I could go celebrate the holidays with my family. However, after just two days with my family, my spirits were lifted and my emotional as well as physical wounds healed. I had a lot of writing to do for the university through the holidays unfortunately, and although I finished delivering papers yesterday, I now have to study for one more exam and my thesis group is beginning later this month. Wait, WHAT? Oh darlings, this year is truly kicking my ass. No matter, as long as I don’t have to be writing day and night like I have been doing for the past two weeks, then I am here, dontcha know? :) Yup, that’s what I call commitment! What can I say, I love perfume and I love you so forget about rest (or shopping), here I am, ready for another review. Enough about studies and pressure and all that: Let’s just pause and breathe in the rarefied air of Monsieur Malle!

It has to be said that Geranium pour Monsieur is not going to be everyone’s favorite: with a rather toothpaste-like, strong mint-spearmint opening, it is unlikely to float everyone's boat. Not a universally accessible scent thus, but an extremely innovative, unique and beautiful one nevertheless. The mint opening is supremely cool, like an icy breath, perfect for cooling down in the evening with a couple of spritzes after a gloriously sunny, hot day. Give it five minutes and the mint loses its toothpaste qualities and calms down to an herbal, bitter-sweet breeze of freshness with gentle camphoric undertones. A slight earthiness, too, struggles to emerge, bringing the senses on the cusp of delicious anticipation.

The heart notes are dominated by geranium. If you haven’t smelled geranium essential oil (Pelargonium Odorantissimum), do it now: any perfume lover that wants to train his or her nose to better pick out notes can start successfully with this one. Its scent is extremely pungent and extremely unforgettable. Alone and in good quality high concentrations it is rather unpleasant, smelling profusely of citronella and leaving a rather sour, dry and ever so slightly earthy trail. The reason I so eagerly suggest it as an early tool to train your nose, is that once you smell it, you won’t forget its scent again, preparing you to readily pick it out in complex compositions. In Geranium pour Monsieur the dose is just right. Yes, it is used generously, so that the end result is instantly recognizable as a composition in which the geranium note steals the starring role, but it is used with such consideration along with the supporting notes, that it shines brightly, jubilantly, youthfully, all its harshness beautifully tempered by the lovely bitter-sweetness surrounding it. So let’s return to those supporting notes then: the mint is unbelievably still there, providing quiet freshness and a cool breeze. Its herbal aspect is underscored by a dill note (oh yes, don’t laugh, I am quite serious), whose inherent soft anise aspects are enhanced by sweet fennel and barely-there anise. You see how genius that progression goes? From the is-it-there, is-it-not anise aspect of dill, to the stronger aniseedic scent of fennel, and finally, to the oh-so moderately used anise? Beautifully considerate, isn’t it? The result is beautiful too, balanced and calm - never a spiky note. Finally, hints of clove and cinnamon underscore the sweetness gently, provide a good bit of dark spiciness to the mix and enhancing the quietly camphoric impression.

The drydown is pure glory. The freshness dies down to a whisper and allows itself to be superseded by clean musks (think fresh sheets), but the beauty truly comes from the round voluptuousness provided by the sweet ambers: soft incense rises through a cloud of yummy, vanillic Siam Benzoin and beautifully balsamic storax. It is all gorgeously rounded off by creamy-sweet sandalwood. Despite this being a predominately masculine scent, it really can work like a charm on a woman. While its signature is definitely masculine, at no point is it even close to aggressive. Proof positive of how well it can work on a woman is Sniffapalooza’s Karen Dubin. She bought this while on our trip and her sillage was so magnificent I had to immediately ask her what she was wearing. Do give this one a try, it might just surprise you. If I am honest, I’ll even admit that I like it better on women than on men. Hey did I say this out loud? Apologies in advance to all the Monsieurs reading my blog - Sorry guys, we’re stealing this one from your shelf!

Images: toothpaste tube via Flickr by twenty_questions, Geranium pour Monsieur flacon

Attacks, Exams, Travel and Wishes

Dear Readers,

Thank you so much for your wishes this past week. My exams are finally over (I passed them!). However some really bad things have happened lately. Someone I love is ill and was in the hospital, which has really, really upset me. Then it felt like I was going to crack under the pressure of all the exams and papers I had to deliver. I finished with the exams on Tuesday and on Wednesday I got attacked by two crazy people here, in this seemingly safe student city. I have been in bed trying to recover (mostly from the psychological shock, I am physically okay) since Wednesday. Further, it is rather hard to type as my right hand is not okay yet and likely won't be for a week. I injured it while trying to fight off my attackers - I lost half of the fingernail from my index and it is really swollen and gross. Thankfully, I didn't lose anything else. The finger will heal and the nail will grow back. I will be okay. I just need to get over the shock now.

I am going to go visit my parents for Christmas and after I come back I have one more exam to give. So Fragrance Bouquet will be back on January the 15th. I will really miss you all! I have missed you already very very much. I wish you the best holidays, whether you are celebrating Christmas, Hanukkah or anything else :) Please enjoy your loved ones and let them nurture you during your time off from work and studies. See you in January!

With all my love,

Divina

Smelly Facts: Sense of Smell & Pregnancy

A few years ago, in 2007, I had reported here on Fragrance Bouquet on the mistaken, yet still propagated belief that the adult brain does not produce new neurons. In that post I explained that one of the two identified areas in the brain that constantly see the birth of new neurons is the olfactory system (the other is the hippocampus). As I reported back then, neurons in the olfactory system constantly die off, mostly due to their constant exposure to harmful agents and thankfully, they are constantly replaced. Recently, while reading the astonishingly interesting and very humorously written “Why Zebras don’t Get Ulcers” by Robert M. Sapolsky as part of the obligatory books to be learned for my exams in Health Psychology, I came across the following related excerpt which I provide here for your pleasure:

“It turns out that there is a huge burst in the production of those new olfactory neurons early during pregnancy. They are fully on line just around the time of birth, and the scientists who discovered this speculated that these new olfactory neurons are tagged for the task of imprinting forever on the smell of your offspring (a critical event for mothers of most mammals). And what happens early in pregnancy, when those new olfactory neurons are showing up, but not quite making sense yet? I bet this has something to do with the famed nausea of pregnancy, the food aversions and olfactory sensitivities.”

- Sapolsky, R. M., 2004. Why Zebras don’t Get Ulcers. New York, NY: Henry Holt and Company, LLC

Image: Flickr by Raphael Goetter

Vanille West Indies (Parfum) & Tijuca by Ligne St. Barth : Perfume Reviews

A new exam period is coming up and as the pressure is mounting, the more I find myself daydreaming of carefree days in the sun, someplace where the sand is warm and the water a clear aqua color (alternative scenarios include spring-time city breaks for shopping and Christmas cheer with my family)… So, in lieu of an actual beach holiday, let’s indulge in a scented taste of summer today on Fragrance Bouquet, amidst the atrociously wintry December weather.

Ligne St. Barth is a line I absolutely love but unfortunately can’t find around here. Every summer however, I get the chance to find its products again at the super-exclusive Luisa Beach Boutique in Mykonos. On the cosmopolitan, star-studded beach of Psarou, every sculpted, famous body sunning itself on the ridiculously expensive, soft, queen-sized loungers is religiously pampered with one of the beautifully packaged Ligne St. Barth oils or milks purchased from Luisa. A child of the generation which has been indoctrinated early on with every beauty editor’s and dermatologist’s mantra on responsible sun exposure, I shy away from these all-natural sun-care products and defiantly hold on to my broad-spectrum, 50+ La Roche-Posay sunscreen, coveting the fabulous, ultra-summery resort packaging of the St. Barth products from afar. But even though I can’t allow myself the treat of one of their suncare products, I fully indulge in their body products and of course, my absolute favorites, their perfumes! From the amazingly unique, ethereal yet addictive beauty of Fleur de Gingembre to the sensual Patchouli Arawak which combines a very dry, beautiful patchouli with gloriously round amber and a hint of oily coconut, there’s something in the Ligne St. Barth line for everyone. Importantly, to me, all their perfumes from chypre to oriental, manage to incorporate a prevalent, deliciously recognizable summery element. This is quite important for it ensures that purchasing a Ligne St. Barth product means you buy a little piece of tropical paradise to take home with you. Today I review two perfumes of this gorgeous line - not my favorite Patchouli Arawak, Fleur de Canne à Sucre or Fleur de Gingembre, but two perfumes I hadn’t yet had the chance to become well acquainted with.

Vanille West Indies: Ligne St. Barth offers two different parfum-strength vanilla perfumes - Vanilla, a sweet caramel-vanilla blend and this one, the newer Vanille West Indies which also features hints of caramel but also adds beautifully feminine delicate exotic floral notes to the mix. If you love vanilla and sweet notes, this is the luxury summer choice: the very high concentration of pure perfume is instantly evident from the film of oil that covers the skin upon spraying. The vanilla here is very, very natural, manifesting as a combination of pure extract and freshly scraped seeds. There is a beautiful, lightly sugared creaminess to this perfume that makes it smell a bit like a highly vanilic crème brûlée. The caramel note is not overpowering, definitely playing a secondary role, but it is however very clearly perceptible. To get a good idea, you should imagine molten butterscotch. The delicate floral orchid notes are subtle, but beautifully enhance the femininity of the blend. Aside from the high concentration, natural feel and the beautiful quality, what makes this a vanilla worth owning, is the aforementioned summery appeal. Despite very clearly being a gourmand-oriental, Vanille West Indies is highly wearable in the summer, not only due to its velvety subtlety, but also courtesy of a highly original ‘frozen’ overtone that imbues the scent with an icy coolness. Considering the rest of the fragrance is supremely warm, this provides a delightfully unexpected sensation. It also has to be said that this cool overtone is categorically not aquatic in nature, but translates more as a sensation. This gorgeous vanilla is a must-have for vanilla collectors and a definite must-try for vanilla lovers.

Tijuca: I find Tijuca’s opening incredibly restful for spirit and mind, as it opens with the bright sensation of pure white light. This sensation is created through the beautifully clean blend of musks, which to me has the very beneficial effect of clearing the mind. For a few moments, all I can think is white - white cotton, soft pure white light and the cleanliness and serenity of a luxurious spa. A few moments later, the perfume transports me to a Mediterranean garden, full of spicy, herbal goodness: Bay leaves, grasses and fragrant bushes, light, sweet citrus and rosemary, cypress, roses, geranium and plenty of cool shade. The feel continues to be clean and there is a prominent impression of a cool breeze, carrying with it the warm scents of spices and balmy, odoriferous herbs. The woody base is redolent of sweet sandalwood which is perfectly balanced, lending the fragrance a gentle roundness, but never taking away from the serene freshness that is prevalent throughout the development. This stunning, unisex herbal/spicy blend is absolutely perfect for spring and summer and is guaranteed to bring calmness, joy and lightness to the spirit. I love it! Right now, I can’t imagine anything more perfect than sharing a bottle with my boyfriend.

Oh, so guess how I feel now? So ready to take the next plane out, even as I have to go back to my books. But since my daydreams all involve other European locales, I guess even a plane wouldn’t be able to fix the problem of the weather. I guess I’ll just have to wait for spring and dream.

These self-chosen samples were sent to me by Essenza Nobile, a web-company that sells cosmetics and perfume and has astounding variety of niche, hard-to-find perfumes. (Editor’s Note: This endorsement is unsolicited and absolutely voluntary! Fragrance Bouquet is not getting paid by the other party.) The two fragrances reviewed can be bought from Essenza Nobile for 93 and 75 Euro respectively. To view the company’s webshop, please click here. (Check left-hand side bar for the full list of brands sold)

Images: Testers of Ligne St. Barth suncare on the counter outside Luisa Beach Boutique entrance, via www.mykonosexclusive.com. Vanille West Indies bottle and four of the line’s edts, including Tijuca, both via www. lignestbarth.com