Sunday, March 23, 2008

Tarantella by Tommi Sooni : Perfume Review

Good morning, lovelies! This post is coming with rather more delay than I expected, but it will be an understatement to say that this week has been... rough. However, I am very excited to present here on Fragrance Bouquet the first blog review of Tommi Sooni’s debut fragrance, Tarantella. Are you excited? Let me tell you all about it.

Tommi Sooni is a brand new, Australian niche perfume line, created by Steven Broadhurst. After one and a half years of work, the first fragrance of the line, Tarantella, is finally ready and select boutique perfumeries across the globe will soon be carrying the beautifully presented jus. A related business trip to Europe brought Steven’s partner, Alex, to Amsterdam where I had the pleasure to meet him last Sunday. Alex, one of the warmest, most gregarious people I’ve ever met, greeted me with eyes sparkling with intelligence and a heart-melting smile. We spent an hour together talking about Tarantella, the world of perfume, inspiration, passion and dreams.

It all started a few years ago, on a trip to Europe when the two found themselves in a beautiful garden of a hotel in Avignon. Sun drenched, filled with sights and smells that excite body and mind, the Mediterranean extravaganza of flora in this garden seemed like a slice of paradise. A lively snapshot, forever etched into the hearts of both men; A snapshot of pure magic that became a burning ember of inspiration. Further inspiration came when on the same trip they visited Parfums de Nicolai. The experience was wonderful for both, but for Steven, it also proved to be enlightening: He suddenly knew exactly where and how he wanted to channel all his passion and creativity. The flame was ignited then and has been burning on sheer passion and determination since, for as Alex stated to me that rainy Sunday afternoon, “The perfume world is a cutthroat world”. But despite the statistics, despite what fragrance experts might advise, a dream is a dream. And a dream worth having, is a dream worth risking for. Tarantella, and with it, Tommi Sooni, were born.

The opening of Tarantella puts a smile on my face every single time. It sparkles with aldehydes that soften the edges and bathe the fragrance in an aura of diffused light. The citrusy top notes are animated and invigorating – a splash of crystalline freshness. They quickly settle, but their scent remains strong, reminding one of the fragrant oils bursting from the skin of mandarin oranges when they are being peeled. This is a most uplifting opening that positively smells overjoyed. Very soon though, the big, bright, energizing smile of Tarantella changes to a mischievous, erotic grin. The brisk freshness succumbs to the silken embrace of gorgeous white florals, whose aroma sings the praise of glorious seduction. Spicy hints of clove and bay leaf add to the sensuousness of the composition, keeping the senses enthralled under their exotic spell. Every now and then, my nose picks up a strange dark scent that smells to me like rose-scented olibanum. The result is rich and full, but the sweetness is most elegantly restrained, laced as it is with bitter accents. A hint of leather and the magnificent combination of earthy oakmoss and balsamic, musky galbanum add sophistication and mystery to this masterful seductress. The overall feel is bittersweet and the effect potent; this beautiful fragrance is unabashedly big, unafraid to make a statement. I can’t help but think to myself: “This is how they used to make them”. And indeed, Tarantella is very much in the same vein of a classic Lauder, a house whose earlier fragrant offerings I deeply admire. This gorgeous trail-scent is not only potent, but also very long lasting. Its development is complicated and slow, making it a joy to wear all day long. In the deep drydown, Tarantella is all about sweet, honeyed Australian sandalwood.

But it is not just the juice that has taken my breath away. The presentation is just as exciting: A protective sleeve is slipped away to reveal a tactile, heavy oblong cream box, that opens up to reveal beautifully colored Japanese hand-blocked paper that was sourced from a family of printers specializing in small runs of designs. The box is completely hand made and the etching on the box lid is also printed by hand. In fact, apart from the machining of the bottle, atomizer and cap, all other processes involved in the production of the perfume and packaging are done by hand. Both box and logo are adorned with the Tommi Sooni logo (a nude woman holding a facetted gem). The logo was inspired by a vintage perfume box etching from the mid 1920's, and was reworked by Steven himself: the expression on her face, as well as the draping of her cloth and tassels have been updated and the gem incorporated into the image. A lover of everything deco, it is only natural that this logo appeals to Steven Broadhurst. The true, and dare I say, heartwarming meaning of the image though, can be found in Steven’s own words about it: “Her proportions are those of a real woman and I love her confident pose. To me she is alive. (...) This may sound a little over the top, but a great deal of work went into her image as she represents our ideals of quality, beauty and the eternal image of the female figure.”

Tarantella is aimed at a more mature market than most of the new fragrant releases out there. As Alex told me, “Steven did not want to follow a trend, but his own vision”. He then went on to tell me about the creative process; Apparently, Brett Schlitter, the nose behind Tarantella, asked Steven the following question while they were working on the scent: “Who are you creating this for? If you could choose one person to wear it, who would it be?” By then, I was literally hanging from Alex’s lips, riveted by the story of Tarantella’s creation. Steven’s answer would have to make for a spectacular ending to this beautifully told tale. And it didn’t disappoint. How can Charlotte Rampling ever disappoint?

Images: "Verdant Dream" image,

Monday, March 17, 2008

Exam Period

Good morning everyone,

today a small announcement: This week and the one after mean one thing for me... Exams. Yay... Filled with stress over here. So, as you might imagine, I won't be posting much for these two weeks. I will be posting a review for Tarantella somewhere this week, so look forward to that though! There will also be a review the week after that too. Just not the usual schedulle, can't juggle it all I'm afraid. After these two weeks, things will return to normal of course.



Friday, March 14, 2008

Dark Season & Gotham by Neil Morris : Perfume Reviews

It’s Friday, which means we have reached the last day of Neil Morris reviews here on Fragrance Bouquet. I am closing this week -which has been incredible fun by the way- with a review of my personal favorite, Gotham. For those of you who have already tried Neil’s perfumes, I have a question: Which one is your favorite and why? There are still a number of perfumes by Neil I really want to try and top of my list are October and Midnight Tryst. I hope I get to review those here on Fragrance Bouquet soon as well.

Dark Season:

I won’t lie to you: There’s something about Dark Season’s opening that I find deeply perturbing. There’s this almost fluid bitter core, surrounded by strange sweetness. There’s something almost medicinal and a strange body scent, I can’t ignore. There’s this mustiness that makes me feel as though I am all alone in a dark old house, rummaging around for some unfathomable reason... And then I open a drawer that creaks with resistance. It is wooden and empty, but it contains all the mustiness of an unaired tiny space and scent-memories of the various objects held in the past. My heart beats faster, anxiously. I need to get past it, for underneath I smell beautiful sweet spice and I so want to reach it... Patience. Patience for five or ten minutes, no more. And then comfort. The sweet, soothing scent of cinnamon washes it all away.

Candles are lit all at once and the old house is bathed in warm light. I’m glad I waited, every single time. Dark Season transforms into a beautiful oriental scent, perfect for keeping you warm in cold weather. Dark Season whispers of winter holidays, crisp cold air that makes the cheeks go red, happy smiles and joyful hearts as friends get ready to come together under one roof, in a house glowingly inviting. A house which smells sweetly of cinnamon and vanilla. Balancing the light, spicy sweetness, there are decorations of pine needless, smelling fresh, green and pure. Their branches are oozing sticky resin: a strong note with a sticky feel that lances through the composition from beginning to end and makes it positively addictive. But what I admire most about Dark Season, and what keeps me returning to my little sample is the cinnamon. As with clove and carnation, it is a note that can quickly become too thick and overbearing. Too obtrusive, if you will. But Dark Season’s cinnamon is simply perfect. Sweet, light, magical and sheer. It feels like it’s almost sparkling. The overall feeling of this perfume is warming, and as is the case with most of the Neil Morris scents I’ve so far tried, comforting. It has this beautiful ability to form an aura around the wearer, sweet and spicy smelling, rounded and deep, that can be gently smelled from a few feet away, inviting others to come ever closer to find the source. If I’m honest, I’ll admit that this fragrance has made me once again long for cold weather, and believe me, that’s quite a feat. I am SO ready for summer!


I’ve saved the best for last. From all the Neil Morris perfumes I’ve so far smelled, this is my absolute favorite. Every time I wear Gotham, I have the pleasure to see a different side of it, a different manifestation of its beauty. At times it’s all about the flowers, at times it’s all about its animalic base, at times it’s all about the leather. This is not only absolutely gorgeous, it is absolutely timeless. This is exactly the type of fragrance I favor: a “yes Mistress” perfume. Don’t laugh! This is all polished hair, immaculate attire, impossible yet utterly chic heels and... a whip. Cruel seduction, where the coolness of ice meets the heat of the flame. If I could choose only one word to describe this fragrance, it would be ‘magnificent’. The opening is an assault of the senses with a blast of seductive pepper and sparkling citrus. A period of reasonable, deceptive calm follows: a beautiful accord of narcissi and hyacinths that starts out smooth but soon intensifies in the most hypnotic manner. From incredibly floral and ladylike, Gotham soon goes dark and mysterious: A thorny rose scent, whose aroma is accentuated and deepened by the green scent of galbanum. And soon, our diva readies for the kill: the animalic base becomes all the more apparent with notes of musks and leather and even though I’ve never seen a mention of civet in the official notes, I swear I smell its warm pungency rising from my skin. Instant glamour. Instant Sex. Just add red lipstick. Diamonds are optional.

Images: and Flickr, originally uploaded by “Lady K!!”

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Dark Earth and Burnt Amber by Neil Morris : Perfume Reviews

Good afternoon everyone! Today we continue delving in the wonderful world of Neil Morris perfumes and put the focus on two fragrances that are wondrous journeys in olfactory magic.

Burnt Amber:

As is the case with Parfum d’Ida, Burnt Amber is a scent that Neil Morris has co-created with the lovely Ida Meister. How I wish I could have insight in the creative process of this marvelous collaboration! Smelling it, I instantly feel like a synaesthete: a whiff is enough to produce the involuntary experience of color in my mind, liquid amber, with hues of deep burnt orange and the golden yellow of ripe wheat. But most importantly, smelling Burnt Amber, I am transported...

A lover of luxury, there is a place in the beautiful city of Amsterdam I love to visit, even though admittedly, there is nothing in there I could utilize myself. The only reason I go there, time and time again, is to please my senses. The place I am talking about, is the House of Hajenius, a two-centuries old, luxurious cigar house, catering to cigar, pipe and tobacco lovers alike. Being in the high-ceilinged, opulent, original art deco interior, I feel bathed in luxury. But it is not just the fact that the space is so incredibly aesthetically pleasing that every visit is food for the soul. The olfactory experience is what keeps me returning to the House of Hajenius every single time I visit our capital city. The humid air is beautifully scented with the most marvelous smells: Cohibas, honey, dried flowers, heavy pipe tobacco scented with malt whiskey and the scent of leather chairs mingling with the light scent of books coming from the library. Wearing Burnt Amber is like a visit to P.G.C. Hajenius, right here in my own home. With a name like Burnt Amber I was expecting a resinous scent, but instead I find myself taken on my favorite tobacco journey. The perfume is absolutely, incredibly moist, dark and gently sweet. Those of you who have smelled good quality pipe tobacco will know immediately the type of mellow sweetness I am referring to. It is filled with honeyed, flowery nuances and undertones of wood and rich tonka. Throughout the development, the rich smell of smoke gently curls around every rounded curve and rises up in the most seducing manner. All the smells I explore in my visits to this most luxurious of shops, bottled in astoundingly rich liquid. Comforting and sensuous, this is a perfume I beg you to try. It is a journey, it is a personal scent, it is an invitation, a cozy hearth, a beautiful autumn. A luxury like no other. I am so very thankful to be able to experience it.

Dark Earth:

Neil Morris’ Dark Earth is a walk through the forest after a storm. The trees are gigantic, but majestic, rather than foreboding. The dark, rich, full of nutrients soil is thankful for the gift of rain. I can’t help but get a feeling of belonging and being one with nature when wearing this beautiful creation. The forest Neil guides us through is three-dimensional and life-like, with not only appropriate smells, but also sights and sounds. The ground under our feet is soft with both fresh and rotting leaves and needles, the tree-trunks are covered with moss, the birds are beginning to timidly call every now and then. At times the silence becomes the most audible sound of all, with just the imaginary sound of sap shooting up with ancient powers from the roots to the high branches of the trees. And that is the note Dark Earth opens with, for me: Green sap, golden-green resin being pumped inside the pine trees, and sometimes forming a beautiful tear on the bark. Precious resin that has overflowed through a tiny tear. It is beautiful and intense and its green, sticky, addictive aroma combines beautifully with the scent of freshly turned soil. As it warms, the scent assumes a beautiful, lightly sweet quality that is felt gently on the back of the throat as I hungrily inhale, my nose pressed close to the scented patch of my skin. The sensation slowly intensifies, both bitter and sweet now, and dare I say, ever so slightly vanillic. To my surprise, in the drydown Dark Earth loses most of its deeply aromatic, acrid yet sweet resinous qualities. It transforms into a deeply erotic, dark patchouli and lusty musk combination, gently caressed by the creamy woodiness of sandalwood. Dark Earth is indeed an intricate journey, starting with rain and moisture, progressing to resinous forest smells and earth and then going through bittersweet darkness on the way home to a log cabin where the air is permeated by honest, lustful eroticism and freedom. Oh, yes..

Images: The pictures of The House of Hajenious were sourced from and respectively. Image of forest, courtesy of

Monday, March 10, 2008

Parfum d’Ida and Spectral Violet by Neil Morris : Perfume Reviews

Dearest Ida, better known to most as Chayaruchama, was kind enough to send me a whole bunch of Neil Morris fragrances to sample, after I said I was really curious to try them. This week (on Monday, Wednesday and Friday) I invite you to explore the samples Ida sent me, here on Fragrance Bouquet. The first two perfumes are Parfum d’Ida and Spectral Violet.

Parfum d'Ida:

Parfum d’Ida is a gorgeous, sparkling aldehydic composition, elegant and effervescent. Smelling it for the first time, I was instantly reminded of another favorite: L’Infante, by Divine. Looking at the notes of both scents, the similarities are not that many: yes, they are both aldehydic scents and they both have a berry note as well as white florals and ylang ylang. Smelling the two side by side though, I sense a kinship – not perhaps in the smell itself, but certainly in feel. In the end, Parfum d’Ida wins my favor, being both sheer and deep at the same time – a wonderful feat. Too, the scent of civet, unmistakably present already from the opening, is too seductive for me to resist. I home in on it and it never leaves my conscience. Aldehydic, floral, green and animalic all at once, yet perfectly blended and balanced, Parfum d’Ida opens with deceptive innocence and transparency, but goes on to become all the more warm and effusive as it warms on the skin. It speaks of femininity and generosity to the point that it makes you wish to be hugged and comforted by the creature that wears it. Is this really the scent of Ida? It would be very presumptuous of me to give a definite opinion on the matter, considering I have never met her in real life. However, I can’t help but feel that this is just an aspect of Ida’s scent: The part that is capable woman, the part that is feminine, generous and comforting, gently protective and loving. I missed the darkness though, I missed the spice. I missed the part of Ida that is absolutely otherworldly and bewitching. I missed the part that is midnight gowns studded with all the stars in the sky and pure, unadulterated mystery. I missed the Diva I so long to meet. But that is alright - it is to be expected that no single fragrance can capture every aspect of this complex woman. Parfum d’Ida is Ida’s hug and loving embrace. And right now, that’s exactly what I needed.

Spectral Violet:

Spectral Violet, the second of Neil Morris’ perfumes I sampled had a profound impact on me – something I never would have expected from a floral composition. The moment I brought my wrist to my nose for that first whiff, I felt like my body started floating upwards, as though I was suddenly weightless and ethereal. My first thought, literally, was “Oh... I am in heaven...” How could I possibly do this fragrance justice by writing about it? I want to roll around in this scent forever and ever. I want to have it as a bath oil and submerge myself in its pool of dark mystery, a pool of violet waters, a pool that transforms into a majestic lake in a time of kings and princesses and I’ll be the lady, yes, the lady of the lake, with eyes of green and clothes of purple and indigo and lilac, that float around me by gusts of wind unfelt by others. The violet petals are candied, like medieval court delicacies meant to be fed by hand to a loved one, in order to make them forget about all that’s wrong in the world. The feel of the fragrance is velvety and soft, like the most extravagantly expensive cocoon made for a fairy. Despite the name, I cannot describe this fragrance as cool, chilly or metallic. To me, it is absolutely warm and sensual. And even though all my memories of violets were made in sunny gardens, this one is a violet I’ve never encountered. It is a violet of the night, its scent utterly hypnotic. It is seduction in a moonlit forest.

Images: The artwork accompanying Parfum d’Ida in this post is a sculpture titled “Divine Embrace” by Taiwanese artist Gaylord Ho.
The image accompanying Spectral Violet in this post is from, a company that specializes in clothes, accessories and gifts. The particular image is called “Purple Fairy with Moonlight” and can be bought as a shirt. It can be found under their women fairy items.

Friday, March 7, 2008

Smelly Facts: Scented History

In their paper “Chirality and Odor Perception – Scents of Precious Woods”, authors Leffingwell and John C. review the effect of chirality on the odor of “sandalwood odorants (beta-santalols, 3-isocamphylicyclohexanols & Ebanol((R))s), patchouli odorants (patchoulol & spiropatchoulolone), agarwood (karanone dihydrokaranone & jinkohol II) as well as the odor active components of other woody fragrance materials (Iso E Super((R)), Georgywood((R)), etc.” and provide an overview of “the progress made in key chiral odorants that represent the scents of precious woods”

The article’s abstract, which I am including below, is a most interesting read in its own right and hopefully serves as impetus for seeking out the full text.

“From the beginning of recorded history, trading of fragrant oils, spices and precious woods were important items of early commerce. By 3000 BC the Egyptians - when learning to write and make bricks, were already importing large quantities of myrrh. In November 1922 when the archeologist, Howard Carter, discovered the tomb of the boy pharaoh, Tutankhamon, a world of knowledge about an age 3000 years before would unfold. As the painstaking discovery and cataloguing of artifacts proceeded, of the items found were perfume containers filled with spices & aromatic substances (such as frankincense) preserved in fat that still gave off a faint odor. From Japan, China, India to the Middle East, the use of precious woods such as sandalwood, agarwood, patchouli and cedarwood, as well as frankincense and myrrh, have been used from antiquity for religious ceremonies and for pleasure. Aromatic woods and plants were burned during funeral ceremonies, providing a connection between this world and the after-life. The word perfume derives from the Latin '' per fumum '' (by means of smoke) and refers to the ancient practice of burning aromatic woods and scented material in religious ceremonies to deepen the connection between people and their Gods. It should also be mentioned that burning aromatic woods and resins was also necessary to cover the stench after animals (or even humans - as practiced in India) were sacrificed in the flames so as not to drive away all participants of these religious rituals (1).
Today, in the Middle East, the aroma of sandalwood and patchouli still permeates coffee shops and bazaars as a mixture of these aromatics are used in the tobacco paste called '' Jurak '' smoked by men (and only rarely by women) in a water-pipe (or Shisho, Narghile or Hookha).
The use of aromatics derived from such Woods (or in the case of patchouli, the sweet, heavy woody scent derived from the leaves of the herbaceous shrub, Pogostemon cablin (Blanco) Benth.), remains popular in modem perfumes.”

Image: The making of Lily perfume, fragment of tomb decoration, 4th Century BC. Department of Egyptian Antiquities, Louvre. Source:
Reference: “Chirality and odor perception - Scents of precious woods”, Chimica oggi [0392-839X] Leffingwell yr:2006 vol:24 iss:4 pg:36 -38

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Cuba by Czech & Speake : Perfume Review

Cuba is the first fragrance of British luxury brand Czech & Speake I’ve had the pleasure of sampling. Smelling the beautiful composition for the first time, I realized that it is not just the company’s fittings that have bespoke appeal: this eau is every bit as artisanal and exclusive in feel. Part of their Aromatics line, Cuba was directly inspired by company owner and designer, Frank Sawkin’s trips to the island. The scent was meant to capture his own ‘rich and emotive memories’ of Cuba, and in particular, the rich smell of tobacco that was a constant during his cigar tour trip all over the island. Further inspiration came from a case of 50-year-old rum, bought from Annabel’s nightclub in London. The result is a scent that rejoices in beautiful contradictions: old world charm combined with the cheerfulness of a Cuban street party as well as velvety darkness combined with blinding sun. Considering that the island itself is a world of contradictions, this is a most successful translation.

The opening is joyful and citrusy, bringing to mind a bittersweet Mojito cocktail with its notes of rum, peppermint and lime. I am particularly impressed by the lifelike lime note which instantly evokes images of the fruit being squeezed with gusto by hand over a glass, the citrus oils making the fingers fragrant for hours thereafter. Too, there is a mustiness underlying the citrus fruit scent, lending intelligence and depth to the opening. It is a most gladsome, zesty and energizing opening, causing the heart to beat a little faster to keep up with its rhythm. My nose also identifies traces of jasmine, which help make the top notes rounder and longer lasting. The heart notes take our joyful Cuban fiesta from blindingly bright noon to sundown, with skies of gold and red. Intensely spicy, the clove emerges dark and seducing. Even though it is always a strong, long-lasting note, it is used in perfect proportion in Cuba, making the result sheer and natural. It is combined with highly fragrant bay leaf, which I absolutely adore. Closing my eyes, it takes me back to a time when well-dressed gentlemen still used to place a couple of these most redolent leaves in their wallet to keep it lightly perfumed. The two notes –clove and bay- compliment each other so well, the result is seamless and hazy: It is hard to tell where one ends and the other begins. I am left with deep admiration. And the genius of Cuba further becomes evident as the beautiful, rich tobacco note starts rising to the top: Tonka, clove and peppermint were all traditionally used to flavor tobacco and it is revealing of vision and understanding to smell a composition in which all these notes enhance and showcase each other exactly as they were meant to. Aside from augmenting the beauty of the tobacco leaf, the sweet, caramel scent of tonka also pays homage to that old case of rum, whose sumptuous, candied flavor served as direct inspiration for this fragrance. Marvelous! The drydown in turn is soft and warm. Sweet and balsamic, as well as a tad smoky, the result is both cuddly and sensual. The starring note is absolutely gorgeous opoponax: Velvety, dark and comforting.

Cuba is available in 100ml Cologne Spray, as well as 100ml Aftershave. What’s wonderful though, is that it also comes in Bath Oil format. Isn’t that just fabulous? Men need pampering too! Lastly, something which has more to do with the quality of Czech & Speake products in general, rather than Cuba in particular: The spray pump is the best one I’ve ever encountered. It offers complete control – you can spray as lightly or as heavily as you wish. My preferred way is a light mist, which is absolute sensory delight on the skin.

Images:,, and

Monday, March 3, 2008

Perfume for the Occasion : Saint Patrick’s Day

Originally celebrated mostly in areas with large and active Irish communities such as the US and Canada, as well as the UK and Ireland itself of course, Saint Patrick’s Day has, in recent years, become more and more popular: The 17th of March has become a celebrated holiday in many countries as diverse as Japan, Russia, Germany, Argentina, Denmark and South Korea.

Celebrations are, of course, themed around the color green - and as food blogs start writing about food dyes and all-green themed menus and fashion blogs start putting together green outfits in anticipation of the holiday, For the Love of Perfume and Fragrance Bouquet devote this month’s Perfume for the Occasion on wonderful green fragrances fit for the day. Considering St. Paddy’s day almost coincides with the official beginning of spring on the 19th of March, these choices should satisfy those early spring green cravings as well!

The Floral:

Cabotine by Gres: An intensely green floral, Cabotine is ultra feminine and youthfully innocent. Despite its greenness, this fragrance has a flirtatiously sweet overtone. And too, despite the fact that its scent murmurs of innocence and femininity, it is also strong and determined: Cabotine is extremely long lasting, offers powerhouse sillage and a strong, seductive trail. It garners heaps of compliments and I have noticed that men seem to be particularly attracted to it. I believe Cabotine’s ingredients must have been compromised somewhere along the line, as it seems to me that the scent is not as sparklingly stunning as it used be. Too, it seems to be a tad soapier nowadays. Having said that, this does remain a gorgeous green floral, whose many admirers (including myself) are happy to see still in production.

The Pure:

Eau de Lierre by Diptyque: Diptyque’s Eau de Lierre can be likened to a dance between a dryad and a nyad: The most beautiful, lifelike, leafy notes embracing with watery notes reminiscent of frozen, crystal clear water from the purest of untouched springs. This absolutely gorgeous scent is almost deceptively transparent. You wear it, you forget about it for a bit and then suddenly you find yourself surrounded by the most beautiful, erotic green light scent, emitting from something in your vicinity. And then you realize the scent is coming from your own skin and find yourself with your nose glued to your wrist for the rest of the day! Even though the scent does not have much of a development once on the skin, it does differ depending on who’s wearing it. This difference becomes especially apparent when smelling it on a man rather than on a woman. Eau de Lierre becomes darker, herbal and mysterious on male skin. On female skin it is fresher, sheerer, brighter, its delicate sillage dropping more than a little hint to mischievous eroticism. I love this one – it is my favorite pick for the occasion!

The Wild Child:

Wild Hunt by CB I Hate Perfume: This is one of those fragrances that make you instinctively close your eyes when you smell them. I received a little sample of this in the mail, in a carefully put together packet by a wonderful, generous reader. I do not often come across Brosius’ creations (in fact this is only the second one of his scents I’ve had the pleasure of sniffing), so I didn’t really know anything about it. Still, without any prior expectations or knowledge, I knew immediately that this was the smell of the forest and a visit to the CB I Hate Perfume website proved me right. I subsequently dabbed this on my partner’s wrist and his reaction was even wilder than my own: “Oh my God!” he exclaimed, sniffing his wrist with a bewildered expression on his face. “I used to smell like this all the time! ... That’s how I used to smell!” I looked at him quizzically. “I used to play in the forest every day when I was a kid and that’s how I used to smell when I came back home!” he explained further. I smiled broadly. He doesn’t always get the scents I proffer him right, often proclaiming that an ambery scent smells floral for example, but he definitely nailed this one. Wild Hunt is indeed the scent of the forest: Extremely earthy, green and magnificent. Leaves, freshly dug up dirt, twigs and vines... a whirlwind of scents that can evoke powerful memories. It is, an experience. Through it all I smell a bright, yellow vein, like a ray of sunshine that breaks through the thick canopy: the scent of fresh chamomile flower heads.

The Sophisticate:

Cristalle by Chanel: Utter sophistication and marvelous elegance is what Chanel’s Cristalle is all about. This magnificent Chrypre is an aristocratic, blue-blooded creature that unfortunately often finds itself in the shadow of Big Sister No. 19, which I consider inferior. Still, Cristalle never complains. Complaining is far beneath her. Stoic, elegant, beautiful and richly nuanced, Cristalle is the brightest green emerald. The development of the scent is subtle and dreamlike: every change that takes place can be likened to a feather light caress that never takes the wearer by surprise, but rather lets them embark on a journey of greens that is at once comforting and fortifying against any hardship. This is a scent for a woman that speaks with her silences, as well as her expressive, eloquent eyes, rather than with a loud demanding voice.

There are countless green scents out there and I had to deliberate quite a bit before settling for these four choices, which I tried to make as diverse as possible for your enjoyment. But what are your favorite green scents? Have you already started wearing them in anticipation of the spring weather?

Images:,, Flickr (originally uploaded by Crinity), Flickr (originally uploaded by gotigersjf)