Dark Season & Gotham by Neil Morris : Perfume Reviews

It’s Friday, which means we have reached the last day of Neil Morris reviews here on Fragrance Bouquet. I am closing this week -which has been incredible fun by the way- with a review of my personal favorite, Gotham. For those of you who have already tried Neil’s perfumes, I have a question: Which one is your favorite and why? There are still a number of perfumes by Neil I really want to try and top of my list are October and Midnight Tryst. I hope I get to review those here on Fragrance Bouquet soon as well.

Dark Season:

I won’t lie to you: There’s something about Dark Season’s opening that I find deeply perturbing. There’s this almost fluid bitter core, surrounded by strange sweetness. There’s something almost medicinal and a strange body scent, I can’t ignore. There’s this mustiness that makes me feel as though I am all alone in a dark old house, rummaging around for some unfathomable reason... And then I open a drawer that creaks with resistance. It is wooden and empty, but it contains all the mustiness of an unaired tiny space and scent-memories of the various objects held in the past. My heart beats faster, anxiously. I need to get past it, for underneath I smell beautiful sweet spice and I so want to reach it... Patience. Patience for five or ten minutes, no more. And then comfort. The sweet, soothing scent of cinnamon washes it all away.

Candles are lit all at once and the old house is bathed in warm light. I’m glad I waited, every single time. Dark Season transforms into a beautiful oriental scent, perfect for keeping you warm in cold weather. Dark Season whispers of winter holidays, crisp cold air that makes the cheeks go red, happy smiles and joyful hearts as friends get ready to come together under one roof, in a house glowingly inviting. A house which smells sweetly of cinnamon and vanilla. Balancing the light, spicy sweetness, there are decorations of pine needless, smelling fresh, green and pure. Their branches are oozing sticky resin: a strong note with a sticky feel that lances through the composition from beginning to end and makes it positively addictive. But what I admire most about Dark Season, and what keeps me returning to my little sample is the cinnamon. As with clove and carnation, it is a note that can quickly become too thick and overbearing. Too obtrusive, if you will. But Dark Season’s cinnamon is simply perfect. Sweet, light, magical and sheer. It feels like it’s almost sparkling. The overall feeling of this perfume is warming, and as is the case with most of the Neil Morris scents I’ve so far tried, comforting. It has this beautiful ability to form an aura around the wearer, sweet and spicy smelling, rounded and deep, that can be gently smelled from a few feet away, inviting others to come ever closer to find the source. If I’m honest, I’ll admit that this fragrance has made me once again long for cold weather, and believe me, that’s quite a feat. I am SO ready for summer!


Gotham:

I’ve saved the best for last. From all the Neil Morris perfumes I’ve so far smelled, this is my absolute favorite. Every time I wear Gotham, I have the pleasure to see a different side of it, a different manifestation of its beauty. At times it’s all about the flowers, at times it’s all about its animalic base, at times it’s all about the leather. This is not only absolutely gorgeous, it is absolutely timeless. This is exactly the type of fragrance I favor: a “yes Mistress” perfume. Don’t laugh! This is all polished hair, immaculate attire, impossible yet utterly chic heels and... a whip. Cruel seduction, where the coolness of ice meets the heat of the flame. If I could choose only one word to describe this fragrance, it would be ‘magnificent’. The opening is an assault of the senses with a blast of seductive pepper and sparkling citrus. A period of reasonable, deceptive calm follows: a beautiful accord of narcissi and hyacinths that starts out smooth but soon intensifies in the most hypnotic manner. From incredibly floral and ladylike, Gotham soon goes dark and mysterious: A thorny rose scent, whose aroma is accentuated and deepened by the green scent of galbanum. And soon, our diva readies for the kill: the animalic base becomes all the more apparent with notes of musks and leather and even though I’ve never seen a mention of civet in the official notes, I swear I smell its warm pungency rising from my skin. Instant glamour. Instant Sex. Just add red lipstick. Diamonds are optional.

Images: www.imageafter.com and Flickr, originally uploaded by “Lady K!!”

Dark Earth and Burnt Amber by Neil Morris : Perfume Reviews

Good afternoon everyone! Today we continue delving in the wonderful world of Neil Morris perfumes and put the focus on two fragrances that are wondrous journeys in olfactory magic.


Burnt Amber:

As is the case with Parfum d’Ida, Burnt Amber is a scent that Neil Morris has co-created with the lovely Ida Meister. How I wish I could have insight in the creative process of this marvelous collaboration! Smelling it, I instantly feel like a synaesthete: a whiff is enough to produce the involuntary experience of color in my mind, liquid amber, with hues of deep burnt orange and the golden yellow of ripe wheat. But most importantly, smelling Burnt Amber, I am transported...

A lover of luxury, there is a place in the beautiful city of Amsterdam I love to visit, even though admittedly, there is nothing in there I could utilize myself. The only reason I go there, time and time again, is to please my senses. The place I am talking about, is the House of Hajenius, a two-centuries old, luxurious cigar house, catering to cigar, pipe and tobacco lovers alike. Being in the high-ceilinged, opulent, original art deco interior, I feel bathed in luxury. But it is not just the fact that the space is so incredibly aesthetically pleasing that every visit is food for the soul. The olfactory experience is what keeps me returning to the House of Hajenius every single time I visit our capital city. The humid air is beautifully scented with the most marvelous smells: Cohibas, honey, dried flowers, heavy pipe tobacco scented with malt whiskey and the scent of leather chairs mingling with the light scent of books coming from the library. Wearing Burnt Amber is like a visit to P.G.C. Hajenius, right here in my own home. With a name like Burnt Amber I was expecting a resinous scent, but instead I find myself taken on my favorite tobacco journey. The perfume is absolutely, incredibly moist, dark and gently sweet. Those of you who have smelled good quality pipe tobacco will know immediately the type of mellow sweetness I am referring to. It is filled with honeyed, flowery nuances and undertones of wood and rich tonka. Throughout the development, the rich smell of smoke gently curls around every rounded curve and rises up in the most seducing manner. All the smells I explore in my visits to this most luxurious of shops, bottled in astoundingly rich liquid. Comforting and sensuous, this is a perfume I beg you to try. It is a journey, it is a personal scent, it is an invitation, a cozy hearth, a beautiful autumn. A luxury like no other. I am so very thankful to be able to experience it.


Dark Earth:

Neil Morris’ Dark Earth is a walk through the forest after a storm. The trees are gigantic, but majestic, rather than foreboding. The dark, rich, full of nutrients soil is thankful for the gift of rain. I can’t help but get a feeling of belonging and being one with nature when wearing this beautiful creation. The forest Neil guides us through is three-dimensional and life-like, with not only appropriate smells, but also sights and sounds. The ground under our feet is soft with both fresh and rotting leaves and needles, the tree-trunks are covered with moss, the birds are beginning to timidly call every now and then. At times the silence becomes the most audible sound of all, with just the imaginary sound of sap shooting up with ancient powers from the roots to the high branches of the trees. And that is the note Dark Earth opens with, for me: Green sap, golden-green resin being pumped inside the pine trees, and sometimes forming a beautiful tear on the bark. Precious resin that has overflowed through a tiny tear. It is beautiful and intense and its green, sticky, addictive aroma combines beautifully with the scent of freshly turned soil. As it warms, the scent assumes a beautiful, lightly sweet quality that is felt gently on the back of the throat as I hungrily inhale, my nose pressed close to the scented patch of my skin. The sensation slowly intensifies, both bitter and sweet now, and dare I say, ever so slightly vanillic. To my surprise, in the drydown Dark Earth loses most of its deeply aromatic, acrid yet sweet resinous qualities. It transforms into a deeply erotic, dark patchouli and lusty musk combination, gently caressed by the creamy woodiness of sandalwood. Dark Earth is indeed an intricate journey, starting with rain and moisture, progressing to resinous forest smells and earth and then going through bittersweet darkness on the way home to a log cabin where the air is permeated by honest, lustful eroticism and freedom. Oh, yes..


Images: The pictures of The House of Hajenious were sourced from www.jubileum.hajenius.com and www.kalumet.pl respectively. Image of forest, courtesy of www.sxc.hu

Cuba by Czech & Speake : Perfume Review

Cuba is the first fragrance of British luxury brand Czech & Speake I’ve had the pleasure of sampling. Smelling the beautiful composition for the first time, I realized that it is not just the company’s fittings that have bespoke appeal: this eau is every bit as artisanal and exclusive in feel. Part of their Aromatics line, Cuba was directly inspired by company owner and designer, Frank Sawkin’s trips to the island. The scent was meant to capture his own ‘rich and emotive memories’ of Cuba, and in particular, the rich smell of tobacco that was a constant during his cigar tour trip all over the island. Further inspiration came from a case of 50-year-old rum, bought from Annabel’s nightclub in London. The result is a scent that rejoices in beautiful contradictions: old world charm combined with the cheerfulness of a Cuban street party as well as velvety darkness combined with blinding sun. Considering that the island itself is a world of contradictions, this is a most successful translation.

The opening is joyful and citrusy, bringing to mind a bittersweet Mojito cocktail with its notes of rum, peppermint and lime. I am particularly impressed by the lifelike lime note which instantly evokes images of the fruit being squeezed with gusto by hand over a glass, the citrus oils making the fingers fragrant for hours thereafter. Too, there is a mustiness underlying the citrus fruit scent, lending intelligence and depth to the opening. It is a most gladsome, zesty and energizing opening, causing the heart to beat a little faster to keep up with its rhythm. My nose also identifies traces of jasmine, which help make the top notes rounder and longer lasting. The heart notes take our joyful Cuban fiesta from blindingly bright noon to sundown, with skies of gold and red. Intensely spicy, the clove emerges dark and seducing. Even though it is always a strong, long-lasting note, it is used in perfect proportion in Cuba, making the result sheer and natural. It is combined with highly fragrant bay leaf, which I absolutely adore. Closing my eyes, it takes me back to a time when well-dressed gentlemen still used to place a couple of these most redolent leaves in their wallet to keep it lightly perfumed. The two notes –clove and bay- compliment each other so well, the result is seamless and hazy: It is hard to tell where one ends and the other begins. I am left with deep admiration. And the genius of Cuba further becomes evident as the beautiful, rich tobacco note starts rising to the top: Tonka, clove and peppermint were all traditionally used to flavor tobacco and it is revealing of vision and understanding to smell a composition in which all these notes enhance and showcase each other exactly as they were meant to. Aside from augmenting the beauty of the tobacco leaf, the sweet, caramel scent of tonka also pays homage to that old case of rum, whose sumptuous, candied flavor served as direct inspiration for this fragrance. Marvelous! The drydown in turn is soft and warm. Sweet and balsamic, as well as a tad smoky, the result is both cuddly and sensual. The starring note is absolutely gorgeous opoponax: Velvety, dark and comforting.

Cuba is available in 100ml Cologne Spray, as well as 100ml Aftershave. What’s wonderful though, is that it also comes in Bath Oil format. Isn’t that just fabulous? Men need pampering too! Lastly, something which has more to do with the quality of Czech & Speake products in general, rather than Cuba in particular: The spray pump is the best one I’ve ever encountered. It offers complete control – you can spray as lightly or as heavily as you wish. My preferred way is a light mist, which is absolute sensory delight on the skin.

Images: www.czechandspeake.com, www.sxc.hu, commons.wikimedia.org and www.czechandspeake.com