Smelly Facts: The Making of a Best-Seller

Have you ever wondered what it takes to make a best-selling perfume? The obvious answer should be a combination of quality (first and foremost one would argue), capturing the zeitgeist of the period of release and of course some sort of universal appeal. But of course as we perfume lovers well know, far from all best-selling perfumes comply with these or similar criteria. In fact, most of the time it is marketing that drives a best-seller, with unfortunate, deleterious consequences for the sensitive noses and sensibilities of connoiseurs who end up disparaging the mainstream market as a result. For me one such perfume whose continuing success leaves me rather bewildered is Dior's J'Adore, a veritable golden goose for the company. Countless women profess their adoration (ugh, forgive the accidental pun) for J'Adore, much to my dismay and confusion. Well, I seem to have come across an (at least partial) explanation for its success while studying for Consumer Psychology, one of my elective courses this year, and now that I've more time I finally get to share it with you. According to Hoyer & MacInnis (2008, p. 34) it is not uncommon for modern marketing efforts to be driven by neuroscience:

Neuroscientists are seeking to understand consumer behavior by looking at brain activity using functional resonance imaging (fMRI). To do this, they examine which parts of the brain become activated when consumers are engaging in activities such as making a decision, viewing an ad, or selecting an investment. For instance, Christian Dior used fMRI research to test consumer's reactions to music, colors, and ad placement when planning its highly successful introductory campaign for J'Adore perfume. Although neuroscience research raises concerns about manipulation, one advertising executive notes: "Observing brain activity and setting up models for behavior is not the same as forcing a brain into making a consumption decision."

Although I cannot with certaintly refute the validity of this claim without further information, one has to question the extent of its truthfulness. Specifically, in the event that marketing is heavily based on automatic brain responses, what sort of defense is left for us against it? What do you think? Considering that not every household currently contains a bottle of J'Adore it is clear that freedom of choice still remains secure, but with more technological advances in the future I foresee this ethical debate heating up.

To briefly return to one of my initial points regarding universal appeal in perfume, I found another interesting little tidbit elsewhere in the book (idem, p. 84). According to the authors "Only one smell is universally regarded as pleasant. No, it's not vanilla... It's cola! Considering this, I am surprised we've yet to come across a perfume with cola notes! Or have I missed something?

References: Hoyer, D. W. & MacInnis, D. J., 2008. Consumer Behavior. North Way: GB, South-Western, Cengage Learning

Emphasis in original text added by author.

Fragrance Bouquet Loves: Natural Berry Lips

It’s been a while since we’ve had a “Fragrance Bouquet Loves…” feature, but now that the spring seems to have finally come, I can’t resist writing about one of my favorite makeup looks. The bright glare of the sun and its warmth is not only reflected in our collective moods, but also in our looks: Gone are the heavy clothes and fabrics, gone are the sensible shoes, gone the strict up-dos. Importantly, gone also are the make-up styles we’ve favored all winter: It’s bye-bye to Chanel’s Noirs Obscurs (did you buy into these LE’s? I went for Maniac), bye-bye to serious browns and bye-bye to anything that looks heavy and overly done. It’s spring and fresh is the word.

Fragrance Bouquet Looooves natural lips for spring and summer. What do you think of when you hear the words ‘natural lips’? The past decade beauty magazines have conditioned us to mentally associate natural lips with nude lips, but even publications fiercely devoted to the nude lip look are starting to revoke: The word is finally out that what looks good on camera and on the catwalk simply doesn’t translate as successfully in real life, with most faces ending up looking washed-out and pale. Let’s face it: Natural has more to do with shades of pink than with shades of beige!

My own personal favorites when it comes to natural looking lips are the shades mimicking soft, yet vibrant berry colors. The idea should be “your lips but better”, as trite and overused as that phrase might sound. Still, that’s easier said than done. A shade that looks perfectly natural in the tube might end up looking gaudy on the lips (and as one who refuses to test used lipsticks on the make-up counter, I can tell you that my lipstick drawer is filled with such failed purchases). Okay, so we are looking for that elusive “your lips but better” look, but where can we find it and what exactly does it look like? Let’s take a look at the perfect embodiment of the look, modeled by the woman who champions and wears the look best, Giselle Bündchen. In fact, this whole post is inspired by her: I was mesmerized by her effortless look a couple of years ago and have been copying it ever since.





As you see, Giselle ROCKS this look, seemingly having found the perfect shade that accentuates her lips by flatteringly enhancing the color, yet appearing completely effortless, as though she is not wearing any lipstick at all. Aside from finding the all-important shade, the other key in achieving this look is texture: Lipgloss can look goopy and even the finest layer will attract too much attention due to its glassy shine. Anything matte or overly opaque on the other hand will ruin the natural effect of your own lips showing through, precisely what we want to avoid. The texture needs to be lightly sheer yet offer enough pigment to give that erotic flush of color that will enhance your own. Well, look no further than MAC’s Lustre finish line of lipsticks for both the perfect shade and texture. The absolute best one is Rue d’Bois - a supremely natural looking sheer midtone pink. It contains pearlized pigment, but it is so finely milled that the result on the lips is just beautiful natural-looking shine without a single hint of flashy glitter. Seriously this is the best natural looking, your-lips-but-better berry-pink that I’ve ever laid my hands on! It is HIGHLY recommended. Moreover the pearlized pigment is multidimensional and should suit all skin tones. Unfortunately this perfect shade was (at least until two years ago) only available in Europe, Middle East, Africa and India. I am not sure if it is now available in the USA as well. In the event that it is not, please give the second best choice a try: Naked Paris - another sheer lustre with finely milled pearlized pigment. This one is also a beautiful pink tone but contains slightly darker brown-pink undertones so it is not my first choice. Fair-skinned beauties who can’t find Rue d’Bois in the USA might also want to give Radiccio a try (my third choice). This is a sheer mauve-y berry color which will work best for those who have really fair skin with blue undertones as its tone is blue-based. Beauties with fair skin which has yellow undertones (or olive-skinned beauties) might also want to check out Avon’s Frozen Rose. This is an amazingly beautiful conditioning sheer with enough pigment to give that desired ‘oomph’! It is rather more flashy and thus a little less barely-there than the MACs, but it still very natural looking. It has a beautiful, subtle gold sheen.

Finish the Look: Flushed cheeks are the perfect compliment for this look. Use a cream blush, as this will suit the look best, by allowing your skin to show through and keeping the natural appearance intact (powder blush can diminish the dewy appearance we’re looking for). Do as Giselle and subtly flush the arc that passes over the nose as well, mimicking the look you’d get if you’d spent the day in the sun. Load the lashes with mascara and you’re done! If you must use coverage for your skin, go for a tinted cream and only apply on areas that truly need it, allowing your natural skin beauty to show through.

Full Lips: If you’re missing your lipliner then I’ve one last tip for you. Enhance the cupid’s mound (the slightly plumper fine area lining your cupid’s bow and whole upper lip) with some shimmer. This enhances the plumpness of that area which is a sign of youth and as such sends an erotic signal. You need to be very discreet and careful when doing this however. For daytime I suggest carefully lining just outside your lips with a very fine layer of pearly-white lip-balm and then proceeding with the application of your lipstick (Labello’s Pearl & Shine works well, as do many of the white pearl conditioning lipsticks sold by many of the major cosmetics brands). If you are going to be indoors or in the afternoon and evening you can use something slightly more daring. Take a fine lip-brush (I like Shu Uemura’s 6M Sable), and dip it in a pearly-white shadow. Then carefully draw a very fine line outside your upper lip. The most pigment should be applied on the center and above the cupid’s bow, simply drawing out into a fading thinner line outwards. Finish may be cream or powder. Do not draw into your actual lips at all, as this will make them smaller instead of bigger!


Images: behindblondiepark.com, guardian.co.uk (Photograph: Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images), aslcdn.celebuzz.com

Perfumed Quotes: Christopher Ash

"It always reminds me of a cool English wood in spring, and the scent you smell when you tear up the moss to uncover the dark soil underneath."

-Christopher Ash, Whaler's Eye. (Referring to the scent of ambergris)

Perfume in the Media: Pushing Daisies

I’m not sure if you’re familiar with the series called “Pushing Daisies”. For me, this sadly already finished show (it lasted two seasons) has been a recent discovery. The concept of this black comedy show is quirky (a pie maker who can bring people back to life with a touch of his finger solves crimes) but what is most charming about it is its style. With bright, gorgeous Technicolor sets that are as beautifully suburban and bizarre as those of Stepford Wives (with costumes to match) and a narration style that brings to mind Amelie’s innocence and magic, watching Pushing Daisies is definitely an escape.

If you haven’t watched this show I definitely recommend it. But what does a post about Pushing Daisies have to do with a perfume blog? Well, yesterday night I caught episode 7 of season 1, titled “The Smell of Success” and found that to my surprise, the entire episode was devoted to perfume, scents and the sense of olfaction! Concepts such as perfume’s connection to memories and feelings come up throughout, as do the subjects of perfume-book publishing, perfume expertise and indoles, of all things…! Of course, where real perfume and olfaction facts are concerned the episode is full of inaccuracies and embellishments, but that does not take away from the fun. If you, like me, delight in finding storylines connected to perfume in books and film, do try to catch this episode - it is really, really fun to watch. In fact I recommend the whole series. I’ve found it’s a major de-stressor, it always leaves me with a good feeling!

Images: via en.wikipedia.org

Perfumed Quotes : Miller Harris

"Hair colour, skin type, personality, dress sense and lifestyle all have an influence on our fragrance style. For redheads, I often recommend an oriental; I've noticed extroverts gravitate towards chypre. But, ultimately, trying a scent on your skin is the best way to find out what suits you."

- Perfumer Miller Harris, quoted in the British publication of Elle magazine, December, 2009.

Perfumed Quotes: Alexander Pope

"Praise is like ambergris; a little whiff of it, by snatches, is very agreeable; but when a man holds a whole lump of it to his nose; it is a stink and strikes you down."

- Alexander Pope

Mystery Perfume

Time for some sleuthing, Fragrance Bouquet readers! Are you up for a little trail-tracking challenge? This weekend I received an email from a reader asking me to try and identify a scent he's fallen in love with out of a short description. Now, I've helped readers with similar email requests in the past, but this one truly has me stumped! So I am posting Efrain's request here on Fragrance Bouquet in the hopes that together, we may help him find, or at least come closer to finding this elusive scent. If you have any ideas, no matter how unlikely they might seem, please do comment so that we can get the discussion going! I will email Efrain and ask him to monitor the replies so that he can chime in and help us narrow it down. Here's the description:

Dear Divina,
I've been going crazy searching for this scent, let me describe it to you to see if it lights up in your mind: It's a very "rare" scent, I only smelled it on one in a couple of thousand people in crowded areas, like beach, downtown, and it should be in clubs. Very stylish, hip, smooth, roomy like a patchouly or a musk(strong air born I mean), but more pleasant and beautiful, very clean, exotic and powdery, like a real strong version of ANGEL-by TM. I wish this could give you a clue, it could be an oil? Divina you're one of my only hopes to end this quest. Take your time and give it some thought or even share it with others. If you know of have and idea, I'm willing to purchase samples to see if we got it, and eventually purchase it even if it's expensive.
Thanks
Efrain

Now, what I can tell you to help is that Efrain really likes patchouli - he mentions Angel and in a previous unrelated email he mentioned his love for By Killian's Taste of Heaven, so I believe what attracts him to both of these scents is the patchouli aspect. The clean aspect he mentions throws me a little bit - the only 'clean' patchouli I can think of is Etro's Patchouly so this might be a good contender, since it is powdery as well. In fact, this is the perfume that looms as the most likely contender in my mind. However, Efrain also claims this has a strong sillage, comparing it to a stronger version of Angel, which kind of confuses things a bit for me. In that sense, it could also be one of the A*MEN scents of Thierry Mugler, or Angel Garden of Stars Violet for the powdery aspect. Prada Eau de Parfum has come to mind as well, but it is not quite 'rare', I'd guess the opposite. When the 'rare' factor is taken into account, I consider Bond No. 9's Nuits de Noho to be a possibility as well, since its scent is famously mindful of Angel.

What say you? What are your thoughts? I really hope you'll chime in to help this reader find his fragrance!

Image: Flickr by Xurble

Perfumed Quotes: Oscar Wilde

"And so he would now study perfumes. . . He saw that there was no mood of the mind that had not its counterpart in the sensuous life, and set himself to discover their true relations, wondering what there was in frankincense that made one mystical, and in ambergrise that stirred one's passions, and in violets that woke the memory of dead romances, and in musk that troubled the brain, and in champak that stained the imagination; and seeking often to elaborate a real psychology of perfumes, and to estimate the several influences of sweet-smelling roots, and scented pollen-laden flowers, or aromatic balms, and of dark and fragrant woods, of spikenard that sickens, of hovenia that makes men mad, and of aloes that are said to be able to expel melancholy from the soul."

- Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray

Perfumed Quotes: Michael Kors

"Fragrance is the only thing that's about your being, your soul, and it's for people size zero to twenty two and ages twelve to ninety."
-Michael Kors

Fragrance Bouquet Loves… Ironless Straightening Balm by Fekkai

There are a number of perfumes and perfume samples on my tray, all lined up for review. Unfortunately I am currently suffering a tyrannical cold which has eclipsed my sense of smell and has left my stomach feeling like a battlefield. At least I no longer feel faint and exhausted all the time, meaning I can actually write about something (and goodness, how good does it feel to be able to think again, instead of living in a haze). So let’s take a look at one of my favorite products, shall we?

I simply adore Fekkai hair products, swear by them in fact, and by all means my whole Fekkai routine deserves its own “Fragrance Bouquet Loves…” post, but today I want to focus on my latest addi(c)tion, the Ironless Straightening Balm from the Coiff Controle line of styling products. My hair is really long, highlighted and has issues: it is dry and extremely prone to frizz, due to the fact that it is a crazy mixture of straight and wavy. Not wavy enough to create a sexy tousled look with styling products OR a diffuser, mind, and not straight enough to actually look beautifully straight without help. Having tried just about every straightening/anti-frizz balm, serum and cream on the planet to no avail can make a girl rather cynical, skeptical and disillusioned. I received a sample of this in Douglas when purchasing my usual Fekkai shampoo, conditioner and mask some months ago however and decided to give it ago. Right from the first use I declared this a miracle product and rushed out to buy a full bottle.

The Ironless Straightening Balm is a non-chemical (very important to us hair freaks concerned with damage) straightening remedy for hair that fights frizz and fly-aways. It works like this: When hair is still damp, you work the product through the hair from roots to ends and then blow dry helping the process along by keeping the brush straight. The results are amazing – I’ve never achieved such straight hair without the help of a professional blow-out! Most importantly, the effect lasts. Now, this might not give you the same sleekness and ultra-straight result a professional blow-out or iron would, but both of these options are extremely damaging to the hair. I do not want split ends and dry, damaged hair, so I avoid blow-outs as much as possible, only resorting to them when I have to attend an event or a big party. But this balm has made my every-day look so much better I am filled with gratitude. It makes hair manageable and sleek, reducing frizz and keeping it straight. I’ll take that. I’ve never experienced anything better, and my poor wallet knows I’ve tried everything throughout the years

Now for the best part? If you, like me, are serious about keeping hair split-end/damage free, you probably loathe using the blow-dryer and any other source of heat close to your hair. Well guess what? This product does miracles even if you don’t blow-dry. Simply work it through damp hair, brush well and let it air dry. You will still get amazing results with no damage incurred. The result will not be as sleek as with the blow-dryer, but it will still look gorgeous and frizz-free.

Despite seeming rather expensive (23.50 Euro around here), this product is actually very economical. I used my sample twice before it was finished and only need 1-2 pumps from the actual bottle for my very long hair. Use a light hand when using it for the first time, until you find what amount works best for you. Even though this won’t make hair oily or weigh it down if you use more than you should, the finish is much more touchable and glossy when the right amount is used.


Click here to see other reviews of this product on TotalBeauty.com

Perfumed Quotes: Jean de Bouffleurs

"Pleasure is the flower that passes; remembrance, the lasting perfume"
-Jean de Bouffleurs

Fragrance Bouquet Loves… Lèvres Scintillantes Glossimer by Chanel

Okay, so I got a problem. I knew about my shoe problem. I knew about my perfume problem. But I never really thought I had a huge ‘thing’ for make-up, even as I ordered a custom-made, self-designed Plexiglas make-up cabinet a couple of years ago. I didn’t quite know where exactly to store my burgeoning make-up collection. Still I never viewed this as a problem. As I was getting ready to write this review of Chanel’s most fabulous lipgloss today however, I decided to take out the lipgloss drawer and count ‘em up. …54. Fifty four?? Fifty four. O-Kaaaaaay. Okay fine. So I have a problem. Now I understand why none of them actually gets finished before it goes bad. But listen, there is an upside to my problem. Extensive concurrent testing (HAH!, yes, I’ll call it testing) has enabled me to pick the best of the freakin’ crop with extreme accuracy! If I had to give up every single one but one brand (not that I ever would, mind), I now know which one I would keep: Chanel.

Chanel has performed a miracle in the lipgloss department. It makes the shiniest, most amazing, long-lasting, and did I mention SHINIEST lipgloss in the world. It’s name? Lèvres Scintillantes Glossimer. Seriously, this stuff is so good, opening the packet should by all rights be accompanied by the sound of cherubs singing. So let’s take a look at what makes this stuff better than everything else on the market right now. First of all, it’s incredibly long lasting. Now, I have to admit I personally am one of these people that manage to keep most lipsticks on my lips for hours and hours and can even eat without disturbing my painted canvas, so I am sure results will differ for those that unconsciously lick/bite their lips. However, we all know that most lipglosses tend to lose their gloss, shine and radiance as time goes by, even if we’re careful with them. Not so with this one. It refuses to ‘gather’ in places, cake or coagulate, its color stays vibrant and it retains its shine. Too, the gel formula is perfectly juicy, lending a wet look to the lips, without ever running, or migrating upwards, downwards or sideways (yuck!). In short, it stays PUT and allows for perfect application even on the edges of the lips. I cannot in good conscience tell you that it is not-tacky, because I’ve never actually met a lipgloss that wasn’t sticky. Let’s face it: Once that wind blows, no matter what lipgloss you are wearing, you’re gonna have to manually remove your hair from your lips, period. But Lèvres Scintillantes Glossimer does feel very comfortable and emollient and unlike other high-gloss formulas will not have your lips sticking together, forming that icky little “thread” every time you open your mouth to speak. The texture is fluid enough to glide on, but the gel is also stable enough to allow for building “layers” on the lips until the desired plumpness and shine is achieved. In fact, I would choose this lipgloss for plumpness any day over actual plumping-effect glosses (such as the one by LipFusion). But what is the absolutely best feature of Chanel’s Glossimer, is its ability to shine like no other. Chanel uses the most finely-milled and most densely-packed glittering mica I’ve ever encountered in a lipgloss. The result is never grainy and the shine is unbelievable.

Chanel currently makes 38 shades (3 of them are limited edition) but regrettably, not every stand sells all of the shades. Too, there are some in the collection that are shinier than the others. I personally tend to go for the shiniest ones, meaning the ones that have the most glitter. Again, I have to assert that the mica is so finely milled, that the result is as beautiful and elegant as anything you would expect from Chanel. At no point should you worry that you’ll be going around with lips studded with large chunks of carnival glitter! The result is completely even. My favorite colors are Paillettes (No. 93) and Galatic (No. 98). Paillettes is an ultra-glittery soft pink which is very similar to Volage (No. 25) with the difference that Volage does not have much glitter, so I always tend to go for Paillettes. Paillettes contains both blue-toned and gold-toned mica, making it perfectly flattering to both blue-undertone and yellow-undertone skins. It is the perfect soft-pink gloss to use with a more dramatic eye-look (I tend to avoid real nudes with dramatic eyes, preferring instead subtle pinks, as they are fresher, more youthful and sexier). Galactic looks white in the tube, but reads as an ultra-glittery colorless lipgloss on bare lips. This colorless wonder is the perfect solution for injecting shine over every other lip-product in your arsenal. I prefer to use it over a lipstain (like the one from Body Shop) but it also looks great over any lipstick or lip-liner which has been used to fill in the lips.

Fragrance Bouquet Loves… Anti-Oxidant Water Booster by Dr. Brandt

Those “in the know”, know that there are only a handful of things that really make a difference in any anti-aging regime. Number one is of course sun protection, winter or summer, outdoors or indoors. Number two is a retinoid treatment, the only thing powerful enough to radically change skin appearance and improve cell turnover and actually increase collagen levels. Number three are anti-oxidants, which by fighting free radicals not only help to keep the body healthy, but also help keep the skin youthful since they protect the cells and collagen from free radical damage. Free radical damage occurs daily, due to sun exposure, smoking (or second hand smoke), pollution, alcohol and stress.

Always interested in what more I can do for my skin, I discovered Dr. Brandt’s Anti-Oxidant Water Booster last spring and have been taking it since. Especially since I do apply a retin-A cream during the winter months, there is no room for an anti-oxidant skin serum, and this helps me treat my skin to anti-oxidants without having to add an extra step in my cream routine (besides, I do believe it is best to feed the skin both from inside, as well as outside). Dr. Brandt’s Water Booster comes in five flavors (original, lemon, green apple, bluberry and pomegranate), all of which claim to be delicious. Well… I wouldn’t go that far! So far, I have tried the original flavor, which tastes very herbal and is quite pleasant, the pomegranate, which is very tangy and the blueberry, which is definitely my favorite, being quite tasty and the one I keep repurchasing. Delicious, none of them might be, but this is definitely a product I believe in and would continue taking even if it tasted unbearable. Thankfully, I am quite happy with the blueberry, so no need for drama.

The water booster is all natural, sugar free, caffeine-free, calorie-free and contains (from Dr. Brandt’s website):

grapeseed extract (vitis vinifera): protects collagen and elastin, for firm skin.
green tea (camellia sinensis): anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant that boosts sunscreen's ability to protect against free radical damage. green tea has been clinically proven to prevent cellular damage caused by exposure to UV rays.
lo han: patented extract from the fruit (member of the squash family) helps reduce cravings for sugar. known as the longevity fruit.
white tea (camellia sinesis): potent anti-oxidant that helps protect skin against free radical damage.

In addition to these, my bottle also lists Lotus Extract (leaf) and Blueberry Extract (juice).

Certain study results have also indicated that green tea might assist weight loss efforts by increasing the body’s metabolic rate. So in addition to helping keep your skin smooth, supple and elastic, this dietary supplement might also help you lose weight. Considering the amount of brewed green tea you’d need to drink to replicate the study results would actually also result in very high doses of caffeine, Dr. Brandt’s Water Booster is a wonderful alternative, since it is caffeine-free.

The recommended dosage is one to two full droppers a day, each taken with a cup of water. One dropper is the equivalent of 15 cups of green tea and the bottle contains 60 servings, which means that if you take two full droppers per day (like I do), the bottle will last for a month.

Lastly, I am very happy to announce for the benefit of my Dutch readers, that even though the water booster was so far pretty much only available from Skins in Amsterdam, the product is now being sold at all Douglas boutiques that carry Dr. Brandt products, making all of our lives easier! The wonderful ladies at Douglas also offer a glass of booster-infused water to interested customers that are not sure which flavor to choose or are dubious about whether they will like the taste or not.


Fragrance Bouquet is not affiliated with Dr. Brandt, Douglas or Skins.

Note: Please consult your doctor before you take this supplement if you are pregnant or suffer from thyroid problems.

Fragrance Bouquet Loves... Silky Soft Skin: Nourishing Body Oil Recipe

Your skin knows it’s fall and worst of all, it shows. Sun exposure in the previous months, the cold winds that are starting to blow ever chillier with each day that passes and the dry indoors climate created by central heating leaves our skin looking... well, slightly reptilian. Not a good look. Left alone to its own devices, the skin of my legs and arms has the propensity to start looking as dry and arid as the Sahara desert and only industrial strength moisturizers of the highest quality manage to produce any sort of results worthy to speak of. Like any beauty junky, I fail to form monogamous, faithful relationships with almost any beauty product, but that is especially true when it comes to body moisturizers: I am always looking for the next best thing, that elusive holy grail product that will transform the surface of my appendages to the baby-soft ideal I have in my head. During the summer however, I concocted a little cocktail of nourishing oils whose results are so impressive I just have to share the recipe with you. Is this my HG of body moisturizers, the one for which I forsake all others now and forever? Well... yes and no. Considering I am rather lazy, the fact that I have to make this product myself every time I run out definitely counts against it. Too, I am not always in the mood for a product with an oily texture (nor do I feel inclined to use an oil when I am about to wear clothes), so for the occasions I need something that sinks in faster I fall back on my regular favorite body butters, lotions and serums. However, there’s nothing else I’ve ever tried that even remotely comes close to matching the results of this little homemade preparation. For the first time in my life I’ve (rather ridiculously perhaps) invited people to touch my skin just to see how incredibly, unbelievably soft it is. For the first time in my life, I’ve caught myself touching my legs each night just to get that little thrill, coupled with the disbelief of one who has suffered dry skin for years and has suddenly found that things needn’t be so. “Is this my skin??? ... This is my skin!!!” The best part? The results are long lasting. Most moisturizers leave the skin supple and soft for some hours but the results are soon reversed as many of us who moisturize at night and find our skin feeling dry in the morning know. Using this oil regularly, I’ve found that even when I skip a night or two my skin retains its elasticity, moisture and softness.

Now, for the recipe. It’s simple really. You need to use equal parts of the following oils:

1 part Sweet Almond Oil: Sweet Almond oil is obtained from the edible seed of sweet almond trees (Almond Dulcis), and it has been used as a skin-softening agent for centuries. One of the key words in beauty and health in the past few years is of course Omega-3 fatty acids; Almond oil is indeed extremely rich in those, as well as in a variety of minerals and vitamins including D & E. It is calming, nourishing, balances the loss and absorption of moisture, and is of course, as already mentioned, softening.

1 part Jojoba Oil: Jojoba is a fruiting shrub whose mature seeds produce a liquid wax, Jojoba oil, one of nature’s own miracle cosmetic products. It is an absolutely fantastic moisturizer that is chemically very similar to human sebum meaning it has great affinity with our skin. Jojoba oil reduces the skin’s water loss while still allowing it to breathe and it improves elasticity. It speeds and aids the healing process of the skin and it is also a fungicide.

1 part Avocado Oil: Avocado Oil, yet another miracle worker, is pressed from the flesh of the Avocado fruit. It is rich in vitamins A, B, C and E, amino acids, lecithin, sterolins, potassium, proteins and unsaturated fatty acids. It helps heal sun damage, reduce age spots and heal skin that has been exposed to climate damage. Extremely nourishing, moisturizing, regenerating, collagen increasing and deeply penetrating, this is probably THE best oil for dry skin.

1 part Calendula Oil: Calendula Officinalis is a flowering plant, also known as Pot Marigold. No oil can be obtained from the flowers of course, so the Calendula Oil bought in health stores is a result of maceration of the flower in another oil. I suggest Calendula which has been macerated in Soya Oil, which is itself a great oil for the skin, rich in antioxidants and vitamins and wonderful in its own right for its nourishing and moisturizing properties. (Check the ingredients list and make sure that what you are getting only lists two ingredients: Calendula Officinalis and Clycine Soya, or Soybean Oil). Now on to Calendula, which is yet another all natural magical ingredient. Extremely calming and soothing, Calendula will soothe red, itchy and irritated skin and is a natural anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antibacterial and antiseptic. It is absolutely excellent for the skin, acting in a regenerative manner, healing dry and even cracked and wounded skin. I have been using calendula for many years and for various little problems and I simply cannot sing its praises enough!

Okay, so now you know why all these oils work! Is there more to know? Well, while three out of four of these oils have no or almost no scent (jojoba oil has a very light scent even when unrefined), unrefined avocado oil, (the only type which I can find around here) unfortunately really does smell vegetal and it will probably make your skin smell sort of ...er... like a used salad bowl. Yeah, not very pleasant. If you can find refined avocado oil (I’ve no doubt that the North American readers will be able to in their excellent health and food stores) then you’re very lucky indeed. For the rest of us, but also for those that wish to add some scent to this recipe, the solution is a mixture of essential oils that pleases your senses. Please be aware that essential oils have to be used with care and dilution instructions have to be followed. Go for high quality oils (found in dark blue or brown bottles to prevent exposure to light). Most importantly my advice for everyone with not sufficient knowledge of essential oils is to use those that are generally very safe for skin even when dosage is accidentally exceeded. Such very safe, non-skin sensitizing oils are rose, sandalwood, myrrh, patchouli, and ylang ylang. Another good solution is to use perfumed oils of your preference that are already prepared for direct skin use. However, only the pure, non-perfumed preparation is safe for use on areas that are suffering from severe skin conditions such as eczema. Lastly, make sure to scrub well before using this oil mixture for the first time: A clean, free of dead cells canvas will allow you to experience the fastest results.

Container: My favorite containers for this oil mixture are Sephora’s “Express” bottles, sold in threes together with two little jars in a little beauty bag. These are meant to be filled with your cosmetics of choice for travel I believe. They hold a good amount and the product is dispensed through a little hole, which provides me with adequate control.

Warnings: Do not use if you have a nut allergy. Remember to do a skin-patch test before using to test for sensitivity.

Images: Flickr by: guivax, monstershaq2000 and preciouskhyatt, www.sxc.hu

Fragrance Bouquet Loves... Sniffapalooza

Today I want to give a shout-out to all the people involved in the wonderful effort that is the Sniffapalooza online magazine! As a registered reader of the magazine, I received an email two days ago from editor in chief Raphaella Brescia Barkley, to let us know that Michelyn Camen’s wonderful recent article proved to be not only intriguing for readers, but for perfumers as well. Following the publication, master perfumer Michel Roudnitska signed the Sniffapalooza guestbook, making all of us readers feel just a little bit starstruck and very much closer to the people whose wonderful creations we admire. Raphaella’s email touched me with its gladsome passion: I want to thank her and all the contributing writers for raising awareness to the fact that there is indeed a group of people that consider perfumery to be an art form they deeply care about, and slowly making the world take note. Too, doors previously seeming hermetically closed are opening for the regular Sniffapalooza trips, which I hope to someday join, to meet all the Sniffa members that are as passionate about the world of scent as I am. Until then, I blow kisses to all of you, readers, writers and Sniffa perfume pilgrims alike.

You can view Michel Roudnitska's guestbook entry by clicking on the first link and scrolling all the way down to reach the guestbook link. From there, click on entries.
Have a great weekend everyone!

Image: Flickr, originally uploaded by Roland Tanglao

Forget me Not: Balenciaga’s Treasures – Le Dix, Quadrille et La Fuite des Heures

For Basque-Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga success came easily, if not effortlessly. Having spent countless hours of his early childhood by his mother’s side while she was working as a seamstress, Balenciaga went on to study tailoring formally in his teenage years. His designs instantly became highly sought after and he managed to open his first couture workshop, named Eisa after his mother, in San Sebastián at the young age of 16. When he was just 20 years old, he branched out, opening his first boutiques in Madrid and Barcelona, naming them simply “Balenciaga”. Highly successful, his designs became popular not only with the crème de la crème of Spanish aristocracy, but even with the members of the Spanish royal family itself. The civil war forced the Spanish master to close his boutiques and move to Paris, but nothing could quite stop the trajectory of this rising star. In 1937 Balenciaga opened his Parisian showroom at number 10 of Avenue George V. He quickly became a household name, but his fame truly rose to a resounding crescendo in the ‘50s and ‘60s. He is remembered for his work with sleeves, necklines, hems and rising or dropping waistlines, which all conspired to showcase different parts of a woman’s body to their best advantage. Most importantly though, he is remembered for his fascinating innovations: Balenciaga revolutionized the shape of women’s apparel like no other. Cocoon coats, boxy jackets, wide collars, sack dresses, balloon skirts and jackets, tunics, and baby-doll dresses all owe their place in fashion history due to this great man. Balenciaga retired in 1968, closing down his salon. Today the house has seen a revival in the hands of PPR, with head designer Nicolas Ghesquière at the helm. While Ghesquière’s designs have often seemed slightly too ‘out there’ for me when it comes to accessories like shoes, I simply cannot imagine a better choice for the house which carries this esteemed name into the future: Ghesquière admirably continues Balenciaga’s tradition in highly sculptural and architectural designs, picking up exactly where the great master himself left off. Under his creative influence, the house of Balenciaga keeps producing revolutionary designs that shape not only the face of fashion today, but also the shape of a woman’s body, once again. Like a phoenix, the house has been reincarnated, its wings gleaming with the same fire, showing us new colors, new shapes, new shades through the burning flames of success.

Today on Forget me Not we take a look at three forgotten vintage extraits by this house:




· Le Dix: Named after the address of Balenciaga’s Parisian showroom, Le Dix (No. 10) is a magnificent ambery floral. The top notes are unfortunately destroyed as often happens with vintage fragrances that feature citrus fruits, but the unpleasantness lasts no more than a few minutes. Soon Le Dix starts flying off the skin in song, glowing and beautiful. Musky lilac and caramelized violets are caressed by iris. The scent is gently sweet, with hints of restrained bitterness. The drydown is a glowing ember in the fluid darkness of balsamic resins and amber, hugged by beautiful sandalwood and sweet animalic musk. I wouldn’t hesitate to call the modern edt utterly destroyed, if the vintage extrait is anything to go by. It is light and ethereal, yes, but it lacks body and substance. Powdery and soft, it does not do much to move the heart and intrigue the senses. If I am being honest, I will say that yes, there are days that I feel like reaching for its light caress, but it simply cannot compare to the richness and darkness of the original. Surprisingly perhaps, the currently available edt smells old, dated and dusty while the vintage still shines and captivates with a beauty that is simply timeless.

· La Fuite des Heures: Another round of painfully destroyed top notes. Five minutes later and I simply cannot believe that the beauty presented to my nose has emerged through the nauseating devastation that was there moments ago. The experience starts with the sweet, milky greenness of freshly cut grass and continues to warmly bloom into a dizzyingly heady jasmine with sour, herbal notes of thyme. I find myself swoon as the heavy sweetness of jasmine overtakes me, making my head spin: I go from fantasizing over a 50’s cocktail party in the heart of summer to looking for a fainting couch that will cushion my fall. And then, suddenly, beauty again. The refuge of oakmoss covered bark amidst the thinning shower of flower petals. Deep green moss, creamy soap and the golden aura of sun-dried hay, making me dream once again of dresses that leave the shoulders bare. A gorgeous chypre.

· Quadrille: Quadrille is the only one of the three that appears to not have its top notes degraded over time; It is beautiful from start to finish. It is also the one that seems to veer off into more traditionally masculine territories. An incredibly warming fragrance, it reminds me of viscous red mulled wine. Intensely spicy, herbal and deep, Quadrille successfully combines elements that seem at once modern and vintage. In fact, I could very well see Quadrille being a successful masculine fragrance in the niche market today. It is a perfume deeply attractive to me, due to its generous use of clove, which I adore. Drenched in thick plummy juices, the spiciness becomes mellow and dark, awakening a persistent urge to press my nose against my skin so that I can explore its rich, violet-colored nuances further and further. Comforting and sensual at once, the astoundingly beautiful Quadrille makes me think of calmness and maturity of spirit. It would be very hard for me to decide on a favorite between the three Balenciaga perfumes presented here today as I find them all wonderful: Le Dix seduces me with its true animalic, ambery drydown, La Fuite des Heures intrigues me with its demanding old-chypre character, but in the end, if I am honest, it is Quadrille which truly wins my heart with its darkness, so abundantly decorated with incandescent rubies and amethyst.

Leaving a comment on this post means you will be automatically placed in a random draw for a sample of vintage Le Dix extrait and a sample of modern Le Dix edt. The winner will be announced on Monday afternoon and all entries until Monday morning will be valid.

Images: www.wikipedia.org & Author's Own

Perfume for the Occasion : Spring and Summer Weddings (part 2, Bride & Groom)

For last month’s Perfume for the Occasion Feature, For the Love of Perfume and Fragrance Bouquet devoted a post on perfumed suggestions for the guests –both male and female- of spring and summer weddings. Now it’s time for the second installment of wedding suggestions: this time we focus on fragrances for the bride and groom.

I’ll be honest with you: when Tamara and I came up with the wedding theme for PFTO, I never anticipated how difficult of a task this would turn out to be: Nothing seems perfect enough for that special day. Indeed, how special a scent is for this particular occasion cannot be judged by the price (no, no Clive Christians or JARs on this list), nor by the rarity (you have enough on your mind already what with organizing the event, there is absolutely NO need to trawl auctions and thrift shops for that amazing vintage). Ideally that special scent would be special by association: A scent that actually means something for the couple. Too, I’d find it rather presumptuous of me to claim that I can pick out the perfect scent for anyone’s wedding day. Still, despite the aforementioned difficulties and dilemmas, I do want to rise to the challenge and provide a good number of suggestions, which will hopefully provide some direction to those truly needing it.

Some general guidelines and personal thoughts first: Since we are dealing with spring and summer weddings, your fragrance of choice should be one that performs well under warm weather. If you have your heart set on something spicy or heavy, by all means, go for it, but do make sure beforehand it is not something that will turn sour, unpleasant or distinctively reminiscent of BO in the event that you start perspiring. A gorgeous floral is an ideal –if obvious- choice for a spring bride, combining femininity with grace and sensuality all at once. The summer months lend themselves to fragrances with fig and tea notes - the former being utterly seasonal, exuberant and mouthwateringly delightful, while the latter keep one fresh, proper and delightfully scented all day. Considering you will already be a sight to behold (which bride isn’t stunning, after all), you might want to rule out fragrances with a very powerful trail in order to avoid becoming a parody of sensory overload personified. Don’t surprise your partner with a fragrance he or she has never smelled on you before, unless you are very sure of their tastes. Needless to say, if there is a fragrance that is special to the two of you, either because you wore it often while dating or because your partner tends to associate the particular scent with you, wear it fearlessly. If you are still uncertain (and if you are willing to relinquish control), how about agreeing to choose a perfume for each other? If you are planning to wear your mother’s wedding dress and especially if you are very close to her, how about wearing the same fragrance she wore on her wedding day? Lastly, don’t go for a discontinued or hard to find scent for your wedding... you want to have the ability to smell and wear this again and again.

Perfumes for the Bride:

· The Traditional: Carnations are the traditional symbols of marriage, pure love and bonding, which makes a carnation soliflore a most eloquent, thoughtful and quite obvious choice for a bride. If you decide to go the traditional carnation path, I wholeheartedly suggest Santa Maria Novella’s Garofano, a most realistic rendition of the gorgeous smelling flower. Don’t let the cologne splash bottle deceive you – this wonderful fragrance lasts all day long. For those of you looking for a sexier twist on the carnation theme, look no further than Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier’s Soie Rouge: The whole plant comes to the fore, but with enough supportive elements to make this not just an adoring tribute to the flower itself, but truly a story that the wearer gets to live out. Avoid at all costs: Etro’s Dianthus. A soapy, chemical smelling mess with a strange, oily aftertaste. The fragrance that almost ruined carnation for me.

· The Romantic: With all the stories built around it, Chamade can only be described as a mythical perfume, as closely approximating the perfect wedding fragrance as possible. Jean-Paul Guerlain allegedly worked on this beauty for seven long years, dismissing 1300 different attempts (a nice round number there...) before settling on the formula he was finally happy with. “Chamade” was the rhythm army drums beat to signal their surrender during times of war, and the perfume itself is named after this beat to symbolize the surrender of the heart in love’s battlefield. The incredibly beautiful bottle is in the shape of an upside-down heart, while the stopper is in the shape of an arrow that has successfully pierced it. A heart of narcissus surrounded by beautiful greens and soft, ethereal notes of lilac, seductive notes of jasmine and light, juicy tropical accents make this scent not only sensual, but also extremely memorable. The soft powdery overtones and the aldehydic fizz give this perfume the character of a timeless masterpiece.

· The Innocent: For the bride that will wear the traditional white gown, symbolizing her innocence and purity, for the bride that will be traditionally given away by the father, for the woman who still feels a little bit like a child, but first and foremost, for the ones who blissfully prove cynics wrong time and time again, Anais Anais is the perfect fragrance. The key-word here is innocence, and if wide-eyed, gladsome naïveté didn’t have such negative connotations in our day, it would have been a perfect descriptor as well. Girly and pure, I can’t imagine a more perfect scent for a young bride.

· The One: My number one choice for the occasion, the most perfect scent for a spring or summer wedding is none other than Carnal Flower from Frederic Malle’s Editions de Parfums line. What more could a bride ask for, than the most perfect white floral? This is a bright, lively, fresh rendition of tuberose that refuses to be decadent, is thoroughly modern yet at the same time manages to have the feel of a classic. The slightly minty, camphoraceous even, top notes of Carnal Flower are wonderfully disturbing while the development bizarrely leads the wearer down an ever more sensual path. The ending result is improbable femininity. Carnal Flower manages to last all day, giving the wearer something interesting to experience throughout, without ever getting exhausted. Perfection.

Perfumes for the Groom:

· The Devil-May-Care, aka It’s My Day: Andy Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain will perhaps seem like a surprising entry for the warmer months. Despite its oriental nature and its sweet character however, I find L’air du Desert Marocain not only extremely wearable in hot weather, but also extremely intriguing. Perhaps it’s just the name, but I swear I can feel the warm air on my cheeks when wearing it now, a sensation I did not have when I first tried this sometime ago, when the weather was still chilly. This one feels like dark, sweet smelling smoke that is ravishing and ruggedly handsome in the opening, while the drydown is the sweetness of tamed, happy comfort.

· The Confident: In my opinion one of the best and most surprising recent male releases, Fahrenheit 32 is a difficult fragrance to pull off. It requires not only confidence, but for the wearer to actually feel comfortable with who he is. Its sweet, malleable core, is surrounded by a cooling, shining shell, which feels and tastes metallic. Marvelous and bizarre, this is made for the man-child whose smile is absolutely heart melting. Absolutely Special. A favorite.

· The Dandy: It might be marketed as a feminine fragrance, but you shouldn’t let that stop you: Eau de Merveille by Hermes is an excellent choice for a summer wedding. It might be a little too aloof for a bride, but on male skin this fragrance assumes a deep warmth that makes it radiate sensuousness. Its wonderful salty overtones work beautifully in warmer weather. Do be adventurous and give this a try.

· The Gentleman: Geoffrey Beene’s Gray Flannel is a beautiful fragrance that acts like a male chypre. The top notes of lemon, galbanum and citrus-leaf oils will give an initial air of freshness, while later this effect is prolonged by clary sage, geranium and oakmoss. The flowery heart adds mystery and seductiveness, while the rest of the composition ensures that the effect remains charming, but proper. Gorgeous smelling and sophisticated.

What are your thoughts on the perfect fragrance for the occasion? Would you allow your prospective husband or wife to pick out a fragrance for you? Would you ever go for a vintage or hard to find scent, or would you shy away from them for the reasons mentioned in the beginning of this post? Would you even consider a bespoke fragrance? Why?


Images: www.guerlain.fr and www.sxc.hu

Perfumed Thoughts : Natural Perfumery

Today I want to touch on a subject that is slightly difficult for me to broach, not only because of its slightly controversial nature, but also because, admittedly, I am not as well informed as I would like to be. Still, it is something that has been on my mind for over a week now and I would rather take the chance to share my thoughts with you while they are fresh, rather than wait. Today’s little piece is not a mandate, but indeed just my own personal thoughts on the matter, hoping to raise consciousness, provoke thought, consideration and hopefully discussion.

I was recently reading an article titled “The Scent of the Nile”, originally published in the New Yorker by Chandler Burr. The following excerpt (referring to Jean-Claude Ellena) quotes part of that article:

“(...)Even though Ellena’s perfumes often evoke the smells of nature, he believes that scents containing only natural materials are not, fundamentally, perfumes. The art of perfumery, Ellena believes, is the art of gracefully combining different chemicals, some natural, some synthetic. The first perfume synthetics were created in the nineteenth century.(...).”

I couldn’t help but find myself having an immediately negative reaction to this statement. Surely this can’t be right? What are the implications of this statement? That natural perfumery is not perfumery at all? That someone who composes all natural scents is not actually a perfumer? That whether creative expression can or cannot be considered as art depends on the medium used? I just couldn’t accept this... I just couldn’t validate this statement. Burr mentions that the first perfume synthetics were created in the nineteenth century; I would like to draw a parallel to express my feelings about this issue. Before the 15th century, painters worked mostly with egg paints, otherwise known as tempera. However, in the 15th century there was a revolution: European painters suddenly started using oil paints, popularizing the medium and changing the face of art as we know it. Suddenly hues that were never seen on a painting before materialized. Textures became so realistic you could immediately tell whether you were looking at velvet or silk. Candlelight reflected differently on silver than it did on crystal. Pearls shone softly. The eye saw in the painting, what it saw in real life. A whole new world was opened up for painters worldwide. You see, egg paints pose numerous limitations: it is hard, or nigh impossible to play with the elements of darkness and light when painting with tempera. There is no way to render light of different intensities. Painting different hues takes not only incredible skill, but these almost never appear realistic. Same with water – there is no way to paint water that appears natural with egg, and it is incredibly difficult to show objects submerged under water or behind a gossamer veil, because egg does not lend itself to see-through expression. Still, despite these limitations, wonderful works of art were created with just egg paints: simply being confronted with the skill of master visual hagiographers who managed to paint the legs of John the Baptist submerged in the river despite the aforementioned difficulties, is enough to bring tears of awe to one’s eyes. And despite the fact that painters can indeed do so many more different things with oil, egg painting is not a lost art. Just like natural perfumery, it is a craft that is not as conspicuous as oil painting, however, it is still very much alive. It takes many painstaking years of studious, extremely disciplined apprenticeship to become a master visual hagiographer today. Even though these artists are limited not only by their medium of choice, but also by the techniques that identify this art form, they still manage to tell their own story, express their own creativity and impregnate each individual piece with their signature. It is a mysterious form of art: the more you know about it, the more you can appreciate it.

I guess what I am trying to say is this: You cannot judge art by the medium used: Whether the medium is marble, steel, or scrapheap salvage, the result is still art, and the creator a sculptor.

Image: commons.wikimedia.org

Fragrance Bouquet Loves... Zen White Lotus Body Serum by Therme

I have really, really dry skin. This is not an exaggeration... I never (ever!) neglect my face, but I’ll sadly admit that sometimes I am too lazy or tired to do the whole body thing. If I do have such a lapse in my body routine, I end up with itchy skin that is so dry you can actually draw white squiggly lines on with your nail if you so please. Nice, huh? Attractive. Now, the product I am presenting today on the first Fragrance Bouquet Loves feature is not a solution to this problem. The most hydrating products I’ve found, my holy grails of body care are actually Bliss’ Naked Body Butter – which is not only extremely hydrating, but also scentless, which is perfect when you want to make sure your body cream does not clash with your perfume – and glycerin, either pure or diluted with freshly squeezed lemon juice. Yes, Glycerin is thick and sticky and not the most pleasant sensation on skin, but believe you me, it works wonders. But I digress; let’s get back to today’s topic, Therme’s Zen White Lotus Body Serum. Why did I buy it, since I already have satisfactory emollient options waiting for me at home? What can I say, I am compulsive like that. Buy it, I did. The “definitely noticeable improvement of your skin” blurb on the packet did what it was supposed to do: it got a sale out of me. According to the packet, the formula contains something called the “exclusive Perfection Peptide Complex” as well as seaweed extract, silk and jojoba oil for “ultra-soft skin”. How could I, what with my profound scaly skin potential, resist?

What is it like? Wonderfully refreshing, the formula is as lightweight as you’d expect a serum to be. It gets absorbed quickly by the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated, but not sticky. In fact, it leaves absolutely no residue behind: the surface of the skin looks matte and completely clean to the touch. I have been layering this with unscented baby oil on top, in order to combine the therapeutic, restorative effects of the Body Serum with the silky, unbelievably softening effect baby oil lends to the skin. The result? I have already had two people compliment me on the softness of my skin lately when they touched my arm. Not to mention I find myself unable to stop touching my own skin in a state of mild disbelief. Yup, this combination of products is a definite keeper! But that’s not all... the best part about this product is actually its smell, the main reason I was motivated enough to present this in the first Fragrance Bouquet Loves feature. Forget the name and what the packet says... This doesn’t smell like White Lotus! Its scent is the most beautiful, light, lemon blossom fragrance. It lasts and lasts all day, surrounding the body with this utterly gorgeous scent I simply can’t get enough of. In fact, it’s such a great scent I’ve actually forgone wearing perfume many times ever since I started using it. By the way, this is not the only Therme product with a wonderful scent: their Thalasso Body Oil Spray smells simply addictive, but sadly, the smell does not linger for more than ten minutes.

Now, as I mentioned yesterday, today is Fragrance Bouquet’s first birthday, so I would like to take the chance and gift a random reader with a bottle of Zen White Lotus Body Serum along with some random samples and goodies. Everyone that comments on this post will be automatically entered for the draw. The winner will be announced in a week’s time, on Tuesday the 22nd. Thank you for being with me this year! Your comments keep me going.

Here’s to making many more fragrant discoveries together; From new, to old and from popular to overlooked. Here’s to another year of passion for olfaction!

Images: commons.wikimedia.org and www.therme.nl

Top 5 this Spring

Shapeless see-through shifts, 80’s inspired man-jackets that make me think of Don Johnson circa Miami Vice, garish combinations of colors, high-waisted trousers of tent-like proportions we’d need stilts to make work, hand painted silks noone but a fashion victim would want to wear (why, Dries?), matronly full-skirts and florals, florals, florals - the only one of the aforementioned spring trends the high-street has decided to put its money on, resulting in racks upon racks of yellow-black-white floral print dresses. (I blame YOU Gucci!) .... Clearly, our wallets are safe this season.





...Not so fast.
There’s still the spring scent wardrobe to consider!
The weather is getting warmer and warmer, but have you brought out your spring scents yet? Looking for a couple of things to sniff? Fragrance Bouquet and For the Love of Perfume offer suggestions! Here’s what I’m wearing this spring.

5. Antonia’s Flowers by Antonia’s Flowers:

This is my chase-away-the-blues go-to scent. One of the few perfumes I only wear inside the house, it is the perfect antidote to grey weather, which unfortunately, we get a lot of here in Holland even in Spring. When the weather is gray while it should have been blue, Antonia’s Flowers is sure to bring back all the joyous feelings I associate with spring in my mind. Green lush grass and light, watery freesias make for an uplifting combo that never fails to make me smile. It gets extra points for its dissonant, musty, mildewy note that reminds me of the smell of the actual bulb. (full review here)

4. Laura by Laura Biagiotti

Last year I wrote a little tribute to Laura, a fragrance that has been part of my collection for many, many years. At the time, it felt like a farewell, since I thought I had grown out of it. This spring, however, finds me with a brand new bottle. What happened, you ask? Well, it often happens that I get even more enamored with a fragrance after I write about it. In the case of Laura, my love was rekindled after my original review. If you haven’t smelled this one yet, do so, at least for reference: It is a great example of a wonderful aquatic perfume. It is a genre that gets a lot of bashing in the perfume-blogging circle, but it should not be forgotten that it too, has its gems. Ethereal, romantic, beautiful, feminine, it is a perfect springtime scent. What gets me every time though, is its unique musky finish. I’ll keep returning for that. (full review here)

3. Hanami by Annayake

Truly, the scent of spring. Early morning dewdrops and showers of swirling petals. The process of countless buds blooming, right there on your skin. Whenever I think about this scent, I have to go and wear it immediately, because the promise of its absolutely marvelous trail following me around all day is just impossible to resist. This ultra feminine scent carries well from morning to evening, but somehow feels better in less formal dresses and natural fabric clothes, like linen suits. It is an absolute delight. One word of warning: Unlike the autumn and winter Annayake scents, this needs extra care when applying. A very little goes a long way. (full review here)

2. A la Nuit by Serge Lutens

Serge Luten’s A la Nuit is my favorite nighttime spring scent. Not only is its narcotic scent absolutely lethally sexy, but also the associations I have with the bloom in question mean that whenever I wear it I get a mood-boost, in anticipation of the summer holidays that are not too far away. It is simply perfect for those nights when it is still chilly enough to throw something light on my shoulders, yet warm enough to enjoy drinking wine outside on a terrace with my friends. (full review here)

1. Tigresse by Nicole Lenzen & Yosh

The most stunning, mouthwatering fruity-floral scent I’ve smelled all year as well as one of the best and most memorable scents I’ve smelled all year, period. I have upgraded from a tiny sample to a tiny, precious bottle and I am loving every single drop. I wore this one lately with a fabulous spring silk dress with bold colors of turquoise and fuchsia and it seemed like the colors of the outfit were becoming saturated and brighter themselves. That’s how bright and impressive this is. My whole world becomes brighter when I wear it. Lillies, figs and gorgeously fresh peppermint make for a glorious combo that goes beyond the call of duty and creates a fantastic impression of pristine waterfalls, lush trees, flower nectar, singing birds, fruit sap and everything else that says ‘paradise on earth’ to me. (full review here)

PS: I just might buy one of those Don Johnson mannish jackets.

Images: www1.odn.ne.jp, http://harbingergallery.net, www.search.com and commons.wikimedia.org