
The winner of the Amandes Orientales small spray decant is Zazie! Congratulations! Please email me your details and I'll get a packet out to you.
Thanks for participating and look forward to the next one, everyone!

Fairchild: Fairchild opens with a strange animalic potency that is quickly overtaken by a bracing, beautifully awakening blast of citrus. I personally find this strong opening incredible as it feels like a powerful jolt of energy that fills me with a positive outlook. Definitely something I’d love to start my day with. After a while this almost superlative burst calms and the perfume transforms into a smooth lemon note enfolded in gorgeous sweetness spiced with accents of pepper. I can’t help but reiterate my feeling that this is the perfect morning scent: Fairchild feels to me as though it produces light. As the heart notes bloom on the skin, the gorgeous sweetness intensifies with the beautiful scent of white florals: jasmine and lemon blossoms are the ones most perceptible to me. Despite their indolic nature, here they both project an image of brilliant white purity - like a wedding bouquet. Sweet ylang ylang gives this perfume a perfectly light expression of tropical bliss. Slowly but surely the base notes begin to emerge bringing the full animalic glory of this perfume to the fore. Gorgeous ambergris bathes the skin in its softly sweet animalic glow, while sun-baked seaweed adds extra naughtiness. The scent of toasted seashells in turn brings with it the calming sound of rolling waves. This is a beautiful animalic citrus-chypre, very much in the same vein as the original Philtre d’Amour by Guerlain, but beautifully suffused with intense light. Some time ago Anya and I had a conversation about whether all-natural perfumes can render light in the same way that synthetics can. With this, a last note: Congratulations, Anya. You’ve created light.
Moondance: If you love violet, then you must try Moondance, as it opens with one of the most interesting and fabulous violet notes I’ve had the pleasure to smell. Lightly sweet, pastel in color and velvety textured like the skin of a ripe peach, the violet in this scent sings with melodious clarity. At first its scent is accompanied by an almost fougère herbal feel, as though it’s underscored by lavender, but after a while that impression subsides as the violet intensifies and deepens. The texture too changes, from velvety to buttery and the sweetness intensifies. An almost fruity, vaguely apple-scented note emerges, perfectly balancing the otherworldly, beautiful melancholy of the violet with its childishly innocent cheer. Two more complementary notes emerge: The buttery character of the violet is beautifully complimented by hints of carrot seed, while the sweetness of the light apple scent is amplified by orange blossom water. At the heart of this fragrance we find the most ethereal whisper of tuberose. Light and diaphanous (and no, I never expected to used these words to describe tuberose either), the infamously sensual blossom manages to retain all of its femininity and guile while shedding all of the qualities that tend to be perceived as overbearing and demanding by many. The base is a sweet symphony of mellow amber and sandalwood, peculiarly lanced through by a slightly bitter resinous vein. Glorious!
Back in summer, I promised you a review of Montale’s Amandes Orientales. Although I never forgot about it, I have sort of been putting off reviewing this amazing fragrance for a silly, yet common (for me) reason: When I love a fragrance this much, I tend to wait for that perfect day to review it, the day that I know will help me do it perfect justice. With an ever more hectic schedule ever since I returned from my vacation, that perfect, calm day seems farther and farther out of reach. At the same time several of you have been mailing me asking for almond recommendations and wondering about this particular Montale, so it seems this review cannot be put off any longer!
notes rest. Heady and warm, the unfolding floral scent is that of a gorgeous bouquet of grand lilies. I wish I knew enough about lilies to specify the type, but in order to describe the scent I will refer to two different perfumes: Donna Karan’s Gold and Hermès’ Vanille Galante. Despite these two scents both featuring a very intense lily note, this is not the lily scent employed here. Both Gold and Vanille Galante feature a lily scent that is rather unnatural, cold, almost metallic and very obviously aquatic. The lily in Amandes Orientales is instead incredibly warm and carnal, very much the scent of lilies I’ve smelled in gardens and bought from florists. It forms a complete picture: the beautiful, narcotic, improbably beautiful scent, the yellow pollen on the stamens, the dizzying, sticky nectar. Most importantly, it imparts an intense sexually charged vibe to the perfume with its highly indolic nature. This entirely unexpected pervasive eroticism is what renders this perfume the most unique gourmand I’ve ever experienced. Its wanton animalic nature is incredibly provocative, but at the same time, being rendered through an exquisitely feminine floral note, it remains dashingly elegant and tasteful. A beautiful, confusing contradiction, Amandes Orientales is a fervid, lusty, almost pornographic temptress dressed in the most polished, stunningly affluent ensemble. And how can you not fall in love with a contradiction like that? It is simply masterful! The scrumptious almond elements and the voluptuously aphrodisiac floral epicenter are both enfolded in a marvelously dark, highly concentrated vanilla absolute. Its tendrils are almost sticky (but never overly or obviously sweet) and beautifully underscore the toasted nature of the almonds with their lightly smoky, inky character. This is a gourmand like no other.

Harem Girl: Together with Bernie!, Harem Girl is the perfume that best subscribes to the brand’s nostalgic, vintage philosophy. In fact, if this was placed in a rare vintage flacon and sold at a vintage perfume fair, you wouldn’t be blamed for being fooled into thinking that this was indeed an old perfume as it even comes complete with slightly ‘off’ top notes. The official notes of iris, musk and opoponax prepare one for a curvy, voluptuous elixir, but in reality this is much more stinging femme fatale than curvy odalisque. What we have here is a thorny bouquet of flowers -all red lipstick and impossibly high heels- enfolded in smoldering incense. The resinous, warm musk base lends beautiful sensuality to the blend, a touch of softness that can be likened to a chink in this vicious lady’s armor. Unisex incense scents (currently enjoying great popularity in the niche sector) can often be boring for they fail to deliver a strong message, relying instead on creating a stable ambience. This perfume is just the opposite, being strongly feminine and deliberately sexually aggressive: it definitely has an agenda. Probably my favorite in the entire line.
L’eau Exotique: According to the brand’s website, L’Eau Exotique is inspired by the tropical waters of 1930’s French Indochine and features light aquatic notes along with champa flowers and sandalwood. Yes, the aquatic notes are there, so if you absolutely hate ozonic/aquatic scents steer clear of this one. However -and even though this is certainly not one I’d soon acquire a full bottle of- I have to jump to its defense and say that as far as aquatics go, you could do worse. True to its name, the scent is indeed very exotic, bringing to mind summery locales, blindingly white linen ensembles and a sense of calm. There is a fruity sweetness accompanying the ever-present aquatic overtones, while the sandalwood base is completed with clean musks and woody vetiver. This is the only perfume in the line that I’d consider unisex and the only one that veers completely away from the brand’s vintage approach, being instead thoroughly ‘90s in feel. Fairly linear and decidedly not for me.
Pure Sin: Opening with a strong (and might I add delicious) strawberry marc de champagne truffle accord, Pure Sin seems decidedly modern instead of vintage as well, but who cares when you have a sweet tooth to cater to? Yummy-yummy chocolate infused with champagne and bursting with strawberry will do the trick if you want to smell edible and scrumptious. As time goes by the intensely gourmand character calms down, allowing the earthy, musky base to show through. This turn tends to take me by surprise, for the scent goes from being all girly and fun, to an altogether more serious and adult territory, courtesy of the rather animalic base. I am undecided on this one: On one hand I can’t stop sniffing my arm because it is so tantalizingly delicious and its changes are so fascinating, on the other hand I am pretty sure I wouldn’t want to go out wearing this. I’d probably enjoy this more as a body butter where the scent would be subtler and perfect for layering, or as a candle.
Tainted Love: Violet has definitely been en vogue the last few years and those of you that love Creed’s Love in Black and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Feerie for their combination of powdery, romantic violets with berries should definitely give this one a try. Tainted Love tones down the berry aspect to a flirtatious gasp and showcases a beautiful feminine bouquet of violets spiced with carnation and light hints of clove. The base is creamy sandalwood and soft resins sweetened with a prominent honey note. I am often scared when I encounter honey in the official notes for it is often sharp and dominant, but the honey employed here is sweet and well-behaved. Incredibly romantic and very American in spirit (think 80’s florals like Beautiful), this is a beautifully constructed fragrance.
Haydria Perfumery fragrances come in simple, rounded atomizers decorated with Swarovski crystals which add a flirtatious boudoir flair. Different colored crystals correspond to each individual perfume. The fragrances are all Eau de Parfum concentration and the 33ml flacons retail for 35$ each. By following this link you can be directed to the site’s webshop where you can also find the perfumes in solid format sold in cute compacts or lockets. You can also order a sample set of the entire fragrance line for 15$ (plus shipping costs for international orders) by following this link.
Goooooooooodmorning!
Haydria Perfumery specializes in creating perfumes with a retro, vintage feel inspired by the golden age of the 30’s, 40’s, 50’s and early sixties. Through her creations, perfumer Haydria Bish wishes to convey nostalgia for the immaculate beauties of the past and return glamour to our lives by imbuing her fragrances with the essence of classic pinups, burlesque queens and femme fatales! I was very impressed with the creations of this indie line: all the fragrances are thoughtfully composed, have excellent sillage and longevity, complex development and most importantly, they all have a good, solid construction. In this two part series, we explore the entire fragrance lineup -currently consisting of eight fragrances- with four reviews today and the next four in Part 2 of the series.
Bernie!: Bernie! is inspired by rockabilly pinup Bernie Dexter (pictured left). Incredibly evocative of classic 50’s florals, this is sure to please lovers of luscious vintage perfumes. Creamy, luxurious gardenia and sharp-ish, green jasmine are blurred by frothy aldehydes and any notion of tameness is quickly dissuaded by the fiery bite of peppery spiciness. The base of gentle, enveloping sandalwood balances the pungent floral heart perfectly, adding a comfortingly sensuous feel. The end result delivers a message of pure self-confidence and self-assured allure. With Bernie!, Haydria Bish really delivers her promise of creating a perfume that truly smells vintage.
Burlesque Blue: Burlesque Blue opens with a floral flourish, extravagantly showering the wearer with white blossoms. Jasmine is the most prominent floral note, but what I love are the moments I get juicy, nectarous hints of honeysuckle. According to the official notes, I should be smelling plum - but I don’t. The delightful green cord that runs through this composition is tempered by the soft embrace of sandalwood and warm musk, touched by a hint of gorgeous, smoky myrrh. Soon the floral notes turn into a whisper and the beautiful warm base is allowed to take over. This is a beautiful musky floriental that brings to mind the glory of Opium… which in itself is a strange comparison, because Burlesque Blue has a very definite green streak and absolutely no clove to speak of. The deep drydown is a very warm amber-patchouli combination.
My Geisha: This one opens as one of the subtler scents in the line, having a soft, innocent girly appeal. The first impression is fresh and very dry, featuring a beautiful matcha (Japanese powdered green tea) accord. Orange blossom and clean musk add warmth to the composition and as time goes by My Geisha goes from dry to gently sweet. However, there is a fruity note present as well, which becomes increasingly pervasive and ruins the calm feel of the fragrance for me. I can’t quite identify the offending fruit, but it smells quite exotic, making me think of summer. It is at the same time tart and (too) sweet and unfortunately ends up dominating the composition, at least in my perception. The end result is summery, happy, flirty and very, very young. Not for me, but if you are a fan of exotic fruit notes for the summer, give it a go.
Gypsy Queen: A woody, spicy floral fragrance, Gypsy Queen manages to be at once mysterious and sultry-sexy while at the same time manifesting a familiar, delightfully comforting gourmand bite. The floral touches are seamless and well blended, adding femininity to the unapologetically woodsy infusion. Sweet spicy accents give it an exotic twist, while cinnamon and a yummy, toasted nut accord lend an almost edible vibe. The rising musky civet base however forestalls further musings on this being a gourmand fragrance: once it becomes evident, Gypsy Queen takes an absolute turn into lusty, smoldering territory. Dark and naughty, this is definitely one of my favorites in the line.
Time for some sleuthing, Fragrance Bouquet readers! Are you up for a little trail-tracking challenge? This weekend I received an email from a reader asking me to try and identify a scent he's fallen in love with out of a short description. Now, I've helped readers with similar email requests in the past, but this one truly has me stumped! So I am posting Efrain's request here on Fragrance Bouquet in the hopes that together, we may help him find, or at least come closer to finding this elusive scent. If you have any ideas, no matter how unlikely they might seem, please do comment so that we can get the discussion going! I will email Efrain and ask him to monitor the replies so that he can chime in and help us narrow it down. Here's the description:Dear Divina,
I've been going crazy searching for this scent, let me describe it to you to see if it lights up in your mind: It's a very "rare" scent, I only smelled it on one in a couple of thousand people in crowded areas, like beach, downtown, and it should be in clubs. Very stylish, hip, smooth, roomy like a patchouly or a musk(strong air born I mean), but more pleasant and beautiful, very clean, exotic and powdery, like a real strong version of ANGEL-by TM. I wish this could give you a clue, it could be an oil? Divina you're one of my only hopes to end this quest. Take your time and give it some thought or even share it with others. If you know of have and idea, I'm willing to purchase samples to see if we got it, and eventually purchase it even if it's expensive.
Thanks
Efrain

Well, Debbie, the "perfume fairy" of DMfragrances loved Fragrance Bouquet's review of Boss Orange and she emailed me last night to say that she would like to offer Fragrance Bouquet readers a full bottle of Boss Orange! Sooo, we're taking up Debbie on her generous offer! Please leave a comment if you're interested and I will put you in a draw. The winner will be announced in a week's time. I will be mailing the winner's details to Debbie and she will take care of shipping. Please take this chance to visit Debbie's store as well by clicking here. The selection is not huge, but I checked it all out and there are certain cult perfumes there that are hard to find in brick and mortar stores (such as certain Ghost fragrances, KL's Sun Moon and Stars etc). The prices are good too.