Intrigant Patchouli by Parfumerie Generale : Musings and a Perfume Review

How do you feel about strongly animalic scents? Undeniably, there is a sense of danger in wearing one in public. The message these fragrances broadcast is by far not subtle – it is instead, a proclamation of pure sexual energy, an advertisement of one’s lusty nature and perhaps best of all, they are an admittance of the fact that at least part of us, longs for and misses the ability to smell the earthy, warm human scent of one another, a scent long suppressed by the norms of excessive and sometimes sterile cleanliness enforced by modern society. Don’t get me wrong – I am neither ready to give up my daily shower, nor throw away my deodorant just yet. As a student of Psychology however, I can’t help but appreciate the fact that masking our natural scent, is in fact quite unnatural. But I digress. Animalic scents then – my first question was how do you feel about them? Moreover, would you wear them in public? Many feel that wearing these scents outside one’s home is too daring, inappropriate, unsuitable even. The scents in question are often well loved, but feel so private in nature, that their owner reserves wearing them only in the privacy of their own abode. Personally, I have no reservations when it comes to raising a little olfactory controversy with my scent of choice. In fact, I must admit to taking perverse delight in wearing something that is bound to raise a few eyebrows and bother a few noses. The little child in me giggles naughtily when I find myself in the mood to take one of my little sex-bombs out for a ride. No, I do not think this is due to some sociopathic trait of a deranged perfumista mind! When I sit to think about this strange behavior, I realize that perhaps the reason behind it is my deep love for perfume – perhaps subconsciously, I am trying to make others not only aware, but actually part of this wonderful world of scent and its ability to awaken powerful emotions. Controversial scents cannot be ignored or taken lightly, like cologne applied thoughtlessly after shaving or a light floral spritzed on the run, already late for an early morning meeting. Thus, when I step out of the house wearing something with undeniable oomph, I am not motivated by a wish to make my friends faint, but rather, by a wish to involve them in my world of perfume – all with the help of a game, instead of prose. But of course I would be lying if I said that when I apply Paloma Picasso on the small of my back as the finishing touch for backless dress appearance I am motivated by playfulness. No, the only motive then is the enhancement of sex appeal, one more overt expression of the way I feel in the particular outfit. I do believe strongly in underscoring one’s mood with one’s choice of perfume. And in the world of perfume, there is no better way to underscore one’s sensuality – an animalic fragrance will always do it best.

By now it must be clear that I adore carnal scents; it will come as no surprise then, that I haven’t been able to get Intrigant Patchouli out of my head ever since I first smelled it last week. It wouldn’t be far-fetched to say that it positively haunts my thoughts, popping in and out of my consciousness unexpectedly throughout the day. At the gym, while doing push-ups to the sound of Bodyrockers Dirty (“There’s a reason why you’re in my head... There’s a good reason why you’re in my bed! There’s a reason why you rock my world... Cause you’re DIRTY! D-d-d-dirrrty!!!” – Oh dear, are you laughing? Please be aware I am not responsible for the choice of music – it is a group class! But let me tell you, it is impossible to NOT think about Intrigant Patchouli while listening to those lyrics! ) and before going to sleep at night, thinking how wonderful it will be when I can wear it again the next day. Intrigant Patchouli starts with a strange alcoholic blast that manages to delay the advent of the pure animalic lustiness that is to follow for about... two seconds. Wait for it, wait for it... then Boom, it all becomes a hot breath of eroticism that blows longingly over every single expanse of naked skin. Its heart is patchouli perfect, so well blended that there is not a single hint of headshop oil left to speak of. It is lovingly surrounded – and in my mind, loved, courted, hugged and fondled as well- by a heart-soaringly wonderful, dirty animalic accord, the heart stopping trio of civet, castoreum and ambergris. And right underneath those tantalizingly inquisitive fingertips, velvety soft sandalwood and the lovely, resinous sweetness of benzoin. As time passes, the scent becomes mellower, with a sweet, musky overtone. Finally, far into the drydown, a lovely, milky-powdery scent rises from the skin in the most seductive manner. In order to get a better idea of how intriguingly sensual this scent is, imagine Muscs Koublai Khan and then amplify (yes!) its animalic tendencies, then add Musc Ravageur’s earthy, dirty sweetness to this imaginary mix and place it around a heart of beautiful patchouli. This is not a perfect comparison by far, but I’ve been curiously testing all three scents this week to see how alike and different they are, so I thought it'd be useful to share. (in fact I am currently wearing Intrigant Patchouli on one arm and MKK on the other, and let me tell you, this is a potent mix!) Surprisingly, even though Intrigant Patchouli is indeed very powerful, it is not a trail fragrance – this is an intimate skin-scent. Full bottle worthy? Oh, yes! I’ll be rushing out to buy this, once my decant is finished!

Images: www.advancedwildlifecontrolllc.com, www.bioinquiry.vt.edu, www.delta.dfg.ca.gov, www.parfumeriegenerale.fr

Eau Emotionelle by Agent Provocateur : Perfume Review

In love again, it seems.
On a particularly rainy, busy Thursday recently, I was frantically biking home after a full day of lectures and labs at the university, feeling quite sorry for myself, for I was completely drenched, cold and tired. My mood was instantly lifted though, as I opened the door to find a packet that came with the mail on the floor. Samples! A lovely reader I had recently sent some samples to, decided to surprise me with a little packet of her own, sharing with me some of her own finds. How wonderful is that? The gloominess of the day just washed off me in an instant, with the kindness that greeted me when I opened this thoughtful little packet.

One of the samples I received was Agent Provocateur’s Eau Emotionelle and I have –quite unexpectedly I might add- fallen hard for it. Eau Emotionelle is meant to be a lighter interpretation of the original Agent Provocateur scent, but I am hard pressed to find many similarities between the two. These are two very different scents, sharing a base that is perhaps slightly reminiscent of each other, but otherwise very dissimilar in ambience, feel and notes. I tried the original years ago for the first time, and even though I liked it, I never considered buying it, as I did not think it was unique enough. It is surprising that I find myself so unmoved by it, as it follows a recipe that I normally can’t resist: It is one of those fragrances that take no prisoners - it packs a punch, it is powerful, wild, animalistic, uncompromising and fearless... in other words, you can’t ignore it. In theory, it is perfect for me, in reality though I am just left shrugging, always ending up thinking that there are others that do exactly what Agent Provocateur promises, only better. Eau Emotionelle on the other hand seems almost unobtrusive, especially when compared side by side with its extravagant, older sibling. In fact, I have trouble discerning Eau Emotionelle at all for a while after smelling Agent Provocateur, the latter being so strong it completely overpowers my senses for a while, making me unable to detect the mild scent of the former.

Yes, Eau Emotionelle is mild and soft, but certainly not as tame and innocent as one might initially think. The opening is ever so slightly green and sappy but soon a lovely, sheer sweetness comes through that lasts throughout the development. There is a spiciness running through it, but one that lacks a bite, being gently enticing instead. The middle is a beautiful, delicate floral mélange that is utterly seducing, like a fine-spun gossamer veil. The base in turn, is gorgeously sensual: intriguing musk and a dusting of the finest loose powder. If the original is a plush boudoir covered in velvet and silk throws, Eau Emotionelle’s bedding is made of the best quality, high-thread Egyptian cotton sheets, with pastel-pink feathers strewn over it and a pair of the finest, daintiest, white lace underwear forgotten on the pillow. Seemingly innocent yes, but not quite... Indeed. This subtle scent is full of hushed promises. Catching the eye of a stranger for a moment too long, the accidental flashing of a woman’s warm abdomen, a lingering smile on flushed lips. And comfort. Heaps of it. Comfort and sexiness combined. Can you tell I am really, in love again? I’ve been looking forward to buying this gorgeous skin-scent for about a week now and come Saturday it will be mine. Sweet anticipation.

Images: www.freefoto.com, www.abeautifullife.com and www.shears.co.uk

By Woman by Dolce & Gabbana : Perfume Review

I wore By Woman religiously in 1998; I remember its strong scent permeating everything at the time: my hair, my clothes, the hallway I’d rush through to get to the door, habitually late for any appointment. It has this way of leaving an air of longing behind it, hanging like a little cloud, long after the wearer has disappeared. I didn’t notice when it got discontinued, somehow I took it for granted, like something that would always be there for me when I needed it. Years later, the olfactory memory haunted me, at times as strong as though my perfumed wrist was stuck under my nose. Other times it would become elusive; leaving behind just this tortured feeling, the nagging certainty that I’d lost one of the sexiest scents I’d ever come across. This summer, while visiting Thessaloniki, I was lucky enough to find it again. Tucked away in what is now known as the old French quarter, three of the city’s oldest perfume shops still exist. The oldest one, the one I was craving to photograph for Fragrance Bouquet was closed, but the one next door was thankfully open. The shop sold mostly essences imported from France, but there was also a section, a few shelves really, of discontinued perfumes. I didn’t even need to scan them: By Woman caught my eye immediately with its extravagant leopard print box. Still wrapped and sealed, protected from the sun in its shady spot, it was as well as mine. My excitement was obvious and the owner of the shop engaged me in a conversation about his own lost loves of perfumery, confessing that he keeps the remnants of several in a drawer, taking them out for a sniff-induced trip back in time every now and again. I paid and left with a spring in my step, not only because I had found one of my own lost loves again, but because I had the chance to speak to someone who is obviously passionate about perfume too.

By Woman requires patience: It is one of those perfumes you have to wait for until they bloom to perfection on the skin. The opening is fresh, very citrusy and slightly green. It has a rather masculine quality to it, in an expensive cologne sort of way. Fruity tangerine and bitter bergamot dance around something unidentifiable – something almost plastic, which is not altogether unpleasant, but is very misleading indeed. It gives away nothing of the true character of the fragrance, the feverish sensuality that is to inevitably follow. It still seems tame, while it is anything but. And so it begins, testing the patience of the wearer with its indifferent masculine freshness. Persistently sniffing the skin is of no use at the moment: like playing with a cat, looking at it straight in the eye will not bring it closer. Ignore it though, avert your eyes, and soon the silky fur will undoubtedly surprise you by creeping up against you, in the same manner that By will surprise the senses by suddenly wafting towards the nose in a completely different manifestation than the one detected close to the skin. This gentle, wafting cloud is a prelude of how the scent will evolve on the skin. Soon perhaps, but not yet. For now the heady, exotic smell of the Lilly is blooming, trying to outdo the pungent, ever so slightly soapy ginger. The inebriating scent of pittosporum, the gorgeous flowering shrub that drives humans and bees alike crazy come spring, is embracing both. It caresses the skin with its white, delicate fingers, bestowing upon it the promise of nectar, the same promise that makes swarms of bees gather to gorge on its flowers. Then suddenly, yes, realization finally dawns: By Woman fully arrives, strong and thirsty, like luscious, engorged lips seeking the gloss of water. It positively surrounds the body, like an inescapable, delirious presence. Lashings of bittersweet coffee-syrup are poured all over the delicate white flowers, infused with vanilla and musk. The result is sweet, but not overly so: just perfect. The coffee combines perfectly with the smooth creaminess of sandalwood and the cedar eagerly brings the wearer's own skin-scent to the fore, enhancing it, underscoring all of its seductive qualities.

Deconstructing By seems almost like a mistake to me – the notes by themselves do not reveal the full extent of the end result. By is more than the sum of its parts: the beautiful blend is mysterious – I feel unable to decode how something can have so much sensuality just by looking at the notes. By is voluptuous, a pair of breasts drawn by an artist crazy with desire. It is sexuality worn as a weapon, which is of course, now that I think of it, the quintessential D&G woman. I don’t understand why this is no longer in production when thinking how much it fits their collections. It is the most gorgeous creature, leaving men half-conscious at the wake of her curves as she passes by, flaunting her cat o’ nine tails. By is empowering, one of the most empowering fragrances I have ever worn in fact. It acts like a confidence booster, like only a killer pair of heels possibly could. (for completely inimitable effects, try both at the same time) There are more powerhouse fragrances that can make a woman feel as strong as fortress, as powerful as a canon. Paloma Picasso would be a good example. But whereas Paloma warns intruders by penalty of castration, By raises an eyebrow and grins, hinting that she might be penetrable after all.

I want to continue the little tradition I started when reviewing Miyako, so from now on whenever I am reviewing a hard-to-find fragrance I will also be offering a sample of it. Please comment if you would like to be entered in the drawing.

PS: I hope the last image can be taken with the humor with which it is intended. I probably should not worry, but finding out that it was banned in the UK made a couple of alarm bells ring in my head!

Images: Author’s Own, www.doyletics.com and www.worldopiniontest.com