Intrigant Patchouli by Parfumerie Generale : Musings and a Perfume Review

How do you feel about strongly animalic scents? Undeniably, there is a sense of danger in wearing one in public. The message these fragrances broadcast is by far not subtle – it is instead, a proclamation of pure sexual energy, an advertisement of one’s lusty nature and perhaps best of all, they are an admittance of the fact that at least part of us, longs for and misses the ability to smell the earthy, warm human scent of one another, a scent long suppressed by the norms of excessive and sometimes sterile cleanliness enforced by modern society. Don’t get me wrong – I am neither ready to give up my daily shower, nor throw away my deodorant just yet. As a student of Psychology however, I can’t help but appreciate the fact that masking our natural scent, is in fact quite unnatural. But I digress. Animalic scents then – my first question was how do you feel about them? Moreover, would you wear them in public? Many feel that wearing these scents outside one’s home is too daring, inappropriate, unsuitable even. The scents in question are often well loved, but feel so private in nature, that their owner reserves wearing them only in the privacy of their own abode. Personally, I have no reservations when it comes to raising a little olfactory controversy with my scent of choice. In fact, I must admit to taking perverse delight in wearing something that is bound to raise a few eyebrows and bother a few noses. The little child in me giggles naughtily when I find myself in the mood to take one of my little sex-bombs out for a ride. No, I do not think this is due to some sociopathic trait of a deranged perfumista mind! When I sit to think about this strange behavior, I realize that perhaps the reason behind it is my deep love for perfume – perhaps subconsciously, I am trying to make others not only aware, but actually part of this wonderful world of scent and its ability to awaken powerful emotions. Controversial scents cannot be ignored or taken lightly, like cologne applied thoughtlessly after shaving or a light floral spritzed on the run, already late for an early morning meeting. Thus, when I step out of the house wearing something with undeniable oomph, I am not motivated by a wish to make my friends faint, but rather, by a wish to involve them in my world of perfume – all with the help of a game, instead of prose. But of course I would be lying if I said that when I apply Paloma Picasso on the small of my back as the finishing touch for backless dress appearance I am motivated by playfulness. No, the only motive then is the enhancement of sex appeal, one more overt expression of the way I feel in the particular outfit. I do believe strongly in underscoring one’s mood with one’s choice of perfume. And in the world of perfume, there is no better way to underscore one’s sensuality – an animalic fragrance will always do it best.

By now it must be clear that I adore carnal scents; it will come as no surprise then, that I haven’t been able to get Intrigant Patchouli out of my head ever since I first smelled it last week. It wouldn’t be far-fetched to say that it positively haunts my thoughts, popping in and out of my consciousness unexpectedly throughout the day. At the gym, while doing push-ups to the sound of Bodyrockers Dirty (“There’s a reason why you’re in my head... There’s a good reason why you’re in my bed! There’s a reason why you rock my world... Cause you’re DIRTY! D-d-d-dirrrty!!!” – Oh dear, are you laughing? Please be aware I am not responsible for the choice of music – it is a group class! But let me tell you, it is impossible to NOT think about Intrigant Patchouli while listening to those lyrics! ) and before going to sleep at night, thinking how wonderful it will be when I can wear it again the next day. Intrigant Patchouli starts with a strange alcoholic blast that manages to delay the advent of the pure animalic lustiness that is to follow for about... two seconds. Wait for it, wait for it... then Boom, it all becomes a hot breath of eroticism that blows longingly over every single expanse of naked skin. Its heart is patchouli perfect, so well blended that there is not a single hint of headshop oil left to speak of. It is lovingly surrounded – and in my mind, loved, courted, hugged and fondled as well- by a heart-soaringly wonderful, dirty animalic accord, the heart stopping trio of civet, castoreum and ambergris. And right underneath those tantalizingly inquisitive fingertips, velvety soft sandalwood and the lovely, resinous sweetness of benzoin. As time passes, the scent becomes mellower, with a sweet, musky overtone. Finally, far into the drydown, a lovely, milky-powdery scent rises from the skin in the most seductive manner. In order to get a better idea of how intriguingly sensual this scent is, imagine Muscs Koublai Khan and then amplify (yes!) its animalic tendencies, then add Musc Ravageur’s earthy, dirty sweetness to this imaginary mix and place it around a heart of beautiful patchouli. This is not a perfect comparison by far, but I’ve been curiously testing all three scents this week to see how alike and different they are, so I thought it'd be useful to share. (in fact I am currently wearing Intrigant Patchouli on one arm and MKK on the other, and let me tell you, this is a potent mix!) Surprisingly, even though Intrigant Patchouli is indeed very powerful, it is not a trail fragrance – this is an intimate skin-scent. Full bottle worthy? Oh, yes! I’ll be rushing out to buy this, once my decant is finished!

Images: www.advancedwildlifecontrolllc.com, www.bioinquiry.vt.edu, www.delta.dfg.ca.gov, www.parfumeriegenerale.fr

Perfume for the Occasion : Valentine's Day

It’s February, and what better subject for this month’s Perfume for the Occasion than Valentine’s Day? Today, Fragrance Bouquet and For the Love of Perfume share their thoughts on making the perfect choice for the day.

I have to admit, researching this month’s PFTO Feature was a lot of fun, but at the same time it was also quite overwhelming. Where does one begin in choosing a fragrance for this holiday? Should the focus be on luxury and sophistication, knowing that many will be going out for a special dinner? Or should the focus perhaps be on seduction, knowing that just as many will be making the evening special a deux, very privately at home? Or would it have been more fun to playfully take a look at the best of fragrances touting the subject of love in their name, such as Anick Goutal’s Quelle Amour and Grand Amour? The possibilities seemed limitless. In the end I decided to follow my instinct – what clearly seemed more interesting for the occasion were the essential do’s and don’ts, so that was my starting point.

Don’ts: Despite the fact that Chypre is one of my favorite fragrance families, in my opinion Valentine’s Day is one of those few occasions when they are not appropriate. Most Chypres carry, along with an air of beautiful, distinguished sophistication, an air of unattainability and often, superiority. Many green Chypres in fact, have the remarkable ability of making the wearer appear distanced from mortal passions. Even the sexually charged, animalic Chypres like Paloma Picasso seem inappropriate: Despite the fact that they have the ability to ignite fiery lust, they still have an air of forceful competence that can be very forbidding. The message they convey is often “You can look (and squirm with desire), but you can’t touch till I say so”. Marine – Aquatic and Ozonic fragrances are best left for another day as well. Their cool nature does not make them good candidates for the occasion, which calls for warmer scents. Too, they can be frivolous, nonchalant and sometimes too casual – all these qualities will render them out of sync with the character of the evening and your body language.






Do’s: It should be a night that’s all about sharing love and passion so the key word is warmth. Orientals like the recently reviewed Moschino are wonderful choices, as are animalic and musky scents, which are the most obvious perhaps, but also the most capable of conveying a passionate message. Those that favor Gourmand scents will be glad to know that this day is indeed the most perfect occasion to wear them with abandon, since their edible nature will speak louder than words. Choose a nuanced, rich gourmand fragrance instead of a simple linear vanilla or chocolate comfort scent, for the situation surely deserves it. If you have a signature scent or one that you wear very often, consider wearing something different for the day – just another way to make your significant other aware that you made a special effort for the evening!

Finally, in short, three choices for the day:

For the Ladies: When I reviewed Soie Rouge by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, I wrote that this is definitely a scent for a very special occasion and noted that its ideal setting is silk sheets, champagne and caviar. In fact, the last paragraph of that review read “The intimacy it proclaims requires it be worn for whom you love most. I hope their heart swells with desire and appreciation, just as mine does when I smell this enchanting creation”. That’s what I call perfect for the occasion! You can read the full review here.

For the Gents: I always notice when a man wears Gucci’s Envy for Men. This wonderful Woody-Oriental smells at once sophisticated and beautifully seductive without being obvious. In fact, it is a slow, thoughtful, patient lover that first attracts one’s interest and then slowly proceeds to ignite a long-lasting flame. The patchouli in the base notes is quite clean and rests on a bed of creamy sandalwood that makes it deep, soft and tender. A great escape from the usual fresh-marine fare, this is sure to make an impression.

Unisex: This is not for the shy, bashful or timid: Parfumerie Generale’s Intrigant Patchouli is all animal, pure sex and primal instincts. Warm, sensual, but also very clear about its intentions, Intrigant Patchouli is an incredibly daring composition that will either make you fall in love or send you running. I intend to fully review this gem soon, so look forward to it. Not for the faint of heart!

Images: Flickr (originally uploaded by Sister72), Flickr (originally uploaded by Way Opening) and www.freeimages.co.uk