Signature by Donna Karan : Perfume Review

In my mind, I’ve saved the best for last, although surprisingly, this is the only one of the Donna Karan Essence Collection (including Fuel) that has not yet received any “air time” so far on perfume journals and blogs. Launched in 1992 as simply “Donna Karan” and now re-introduced under the new moniker “Signature”, one couldn’t be blamed for thinking this might be Donna’s personal favorite, not only because of the name, but also because of the celebration this scent makes of the designer’s favorite flower, the Casablanca Lilly. That honor however goes to Essence Lavender, another Donna Karan Essence Collection scent that although never discontinued, had, until now, been semi-exclusive.

Of all the newly re-launched perfumes in the collection, this is the one I would most like to possess. And there is certainly a dichotomy here between the one I most admire and the one I love most: my admiration would have to be reserved for the one that’s most unique, and that would undoubtedly be Black Cashmere, surprising now as it was back then, peculiarly new and cutting edge, ahead of its time, still. My heart however belongs to Signature, a child of its time that is delightfully out of place now in today’s market. Signature is a thick, baroque fragrance that carries the mark of its era in its deep, experienced laughing lines and makes my heart flutter with joy by reminding me exactly how fragrances used to be back then, in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. It smells crassly, thoroughly and unabashedly Italian and brings to mind other masterpieces of the same era, like the glitzy, opulent (and of course discontinued), Fendi’s Asja with which it shares the very same over the top feel, despite the fact that it doesn’t share Asja’s spicy oriental theme. Another comparison I can’t help but make, is with Beautiful (the original, not the shadow of the exceptional floral it has become in the last decade…), with which it shares a beautiful oakmossy-resinous accord in the drydown.

Signature opens with the bittersweet delight of sparkling, aldehydic fruit notes: peach and creamy, lovely apricot adorned with a shining bergamot twist. A beautiful, at once leafy and grassy green accord, balances the fruit and restrains the perfume, keeping it on the side of elegance despite its flamboyance. The heart notes reveal an exuberant alliance between a gorgeous orange blossom note and lilies, which becomes deeper and sultrier as time goes by. The sex-appeal of this perfume is no doubt helped along by the addition of hypnotic ylang ylang and slightly sharp, indolic jasmine. Behind it all, there is a beautiful earthy greenness that I find absolutely irresistible and addictive. I have not been able to find mention of the note anywhere, but whether it is just my perception or not, I have to tell you, that to me Signature feels like it is drenched in oakmoss, a feeling that becomes especially prevalent as the captivatingly strong floral notes start subsiding, or if you will, opening up, to let the base notes show through. Together with the sticky, sensual resin and patchouli of the basenotes, the combination becomes inexorably fascinating, especially for those of us who long for the prototypical chypre structure we’re so depraved of. The patchouli in question is slightly minty and lends a smidgen of freshness to the sueded notes that so smoothly manifest from the leathery aspects of ylang in the heart notes, into the deeper suede of the basenotes. Time renders the perfume slightly sweeter, despite the fact that it retains its sticky, restraining green note to the very end. The drydown is woody, musky-sweet and perfectly inviting. This is exactly the type of perfume that will do best at night, with a bolder lipstick and chunky accents of gold. There is another side to it too, however: the side that will function as the ultra-feminine, sexy touch when dressed in knits, cardigans and flats. It’ll be the mischievous twinkle in the eye.

The Signature, as well as Chaos, Wenge and Lavender scents also come in luxurious, stylish black candles that burn for approximate 45 hours.

Images: Flickr by valeyoshino, www.producepedia and www. donnakaranbeauty.com

Black Cashmere by Donna Karan : Perfume Review

Black Cashmere originally made a very short appearance in Europe, coming and going like a rare black bird that somehow lost its way while migrating. I remember seeing it, all peculiarly shaped (at the time bottles that did not stand upright were even less common than they are now…) like a large shining pebble that was recovered from a volcanic lake. Standing alone on a pedestal, supported by a crafty little stand, it seemed like a modern objet d’art that persistently called my name. Fascinated both by its look and its sensuous name, I picked it up and sprayed some right on my wrist with the conviction I would undoubtedly fall in love. Mistake; Thick, woody sweetness and an overwhelming sense of drowning in sandalwood and spice sent me running to the nearest sink to wash it off, my urgency exacerbated by my stomach’s protests. I stayed away from it thereafter, like a child that’s learned to respect the sullen nature of nettle and briar. And then it was gone, to my disappointment. Why disappointment? Because not liking something is not quite the same as not respecting it. In my mind, Black Cashmere had been branded as rare and unique, a perception probably helped along to a certain extent by its relative exclusivity, but nevertheless not illusory in its entirety. Black Cashmere was unique – indeed, it smelled like very few other things did at the time.

Smelling the re-released version now, I have trouble deciding whether the fragrance has changed radically, or whether it is my tastes that have changed instead. For Black Cashmere no longer evokes the dramatic reaction it once did. Whatever the case might be, it is still unique and edgy. It still is a controversial scent that challenges the notion of what an attractive personal scent is. The opening creates an illusion of dark leather, lovingly presenting a dominant, delectable, saffron note. As the top notes lift, the body of the perfume is sketched with feather light strokes, like a phantom: cinnamic and camphorous, a combination that gives the scent a rather medicinal vibe. Through a quickly dissipating cloud of smoke, comes a heavy, burnt rubber accord (constructed primarily out of excellent quality cedar)– a central aspect of Black Cashmere’s heart. Although it can appear slightly jarring and overly strange at first, it quickly mellows and shifts into the background, acting like the canvas upon which the rest of the notes are painted. The barely-there scent of clove is enfolded in the softest cinnamon hug, providing a soft, cuddly, comforting element to the already warm composition. The lovely scent of creamy, sweet sandalwood wafts in and out, caressing the harsh edges of cedar and snaking around the waxy, resinous scent of wenge. The drydown is beautiful, a coming together of dry patchouli, cedar and sandalwood, with amplified sweetness and a lasting impression of pure, sweet beeswax. Really, really lovely.

Images: www.parfumdepub.net and www.imageafter.com

Chaos by Donna Karan : Perfume Review

Back in August, Fragrance Bouquet reported the re-launch of several classic discontinued Donna Karan scents, with understandable excitement. I have to admit that even as I was writing about the re-launch, I feared that we might never actually see these scents “in the flesh” so to speak here in Europe, but thankfully, my fears were unfounded. A few months ago, the collection made its way to select beauty stores here in the Netherlands. It is high time these beauties get some more attention from me (as they so rightly deserve), so starting today and going into the next week, I’ll be exploring Chaos, Black Cashmere and Signature.

Having tested Chaos a number of times, I still cannot decide whether the name is deceptive or spot on. It starts out with the unquestionably calming scent of chamomile, which gives the skin a lovely kiss and cuddle and then disappears, fleetingly, as the beautiful blend of ever so slightly camphorous lavender and spicy coriander close in on it, eating it up with the satisfying sound of velvet rubbing against velvet. The slightly iodine, bitter-sweet aroma of saffron, mingles with delightfully pleasurable, tingling hints of clove and cardamom. It feels like the spicy mélange is rising over a spiky bed of waxy, deep smelling resins and smoke. I find the use of clove especially striking: moderation and care has been exercised, to keep what can be a very dominant note complimentary, never actually overshadowing the beauty of the other notes. The big surprise is that the undercurrent of very dark, thistly resinous edges gradually subsides and softens up over time , instead of intensifying. The scent goes from being compellingly mysterious and borderline esoteric in nature, to a sweet woody scent that aches for the scent of skin. Through darkness comes light, in the form of a soapy note that is inherently masculine, like a well scrubbed (albeit subtly virile) hairy chest. The spices become ever more unobtrusive but still manage to cast a bluish-red shadow over the cleanliness that tries so hard to emerge. Beautifully, everything is rounded off by a very smooth sandalwood note that persists and carries the scent into the drydown with hints of musk and soft balsamic nuances.

Chaos feels very personal despite all its heady ingredients. It starts with a cuddle, roars wildly at the heart, but quickly quiets down into a beautiful, enfolding purr that remains rather close to the skin as the day wears on. But when I refer to it as a personal scent I do not only allude to its moderate to low sillage: Chaos is also a scent that seems to blend very well with the wearer, allowing itself to be worn like a second skin, instead of like an extravagant, attention grabbing accessory. A very warm, comforting scent, I would definitely reserve for the colder days of the year and retire it as spring approaches. It has an addictive quality that will appeal to both sexes, but I’d be lying if I didn’t say I detect a definite masculine edge to it.

Image: Image of saffron, www.sxc.hu

Exciting News: Donna Karan’s Chaos at Bergdorf’s

Countless perfume fanatics mourn the loss of their beloved Chaos, perhaps the most well loved of the lost or rare Donna Karan fragrances. In fact, Chaos is the only fragrance I have not written about and yet I consistently receive emails on. The question is always the same: Where can it be found? Well, Chaos is making its comeback!

Donna Karan Cosmetics and Bergdorf Goodman unveil an exclusive collection of classic, iconic fragrances of past and present. Brought back by popular demand (Bravo to Donna Karan Cosmetics for listening!), fragrances such as the original Donna Karan signature scent, Chaos, Fuel for Men, Black Cashmere and the Donna Karan Essence Collection (consisting of Lavender, Jasmine, Labdanum and the absolutely fabulous Wenge) are finding their way back to the hearts of their adoring public in just a couple of days time! I couldn’t be more excited – this is a collection of stunning perfumes that truly deserves to be resurrected.

Donna Karan fragrance experts Catherine Barber and Annette Williams will be available at Bergdorf’s from the 13th till the 16th of August, to offer “a personalized fragrance reading which utilizes a series of provocative images, colors and sounds to help you discover the Donna Karan scent that reflects the real you”. The experts will be found at Bergdorf Goodman’s Beauty Level (timetable found below), and due to the demand, it is recommended that interested parties schedulle an appointment with the Fragrance Counter (tel: [212] 872 – 2581):

August 13, 2008: 4.00 – 6.00 PM
August 14, 2008: 2.00 – 5.00 PM
August 15, 2008: 2.00 – 5.00 PM
August 16, 2008: 2.00 – 5.00 PM

Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan : Perfume Review

It is not surprising to me that Cashmere Mist was released in 1994, the same year CK One was introduced. The market was ripe for perfumes that were clean, unobtrusive and almost asexual – perfect matches for the heroin-chic, boyish figures that were advertising clothes at the time. Although admittedly more feminine than CK One, and a good deal more interesting than L’Eau d’Issey, Cashmere Mist is very much a child of its time. Even so, I only discovered it recently and I have to admit it, it was love at first sniff. There is something incredibly comforting about this scent, so aptly named. It smells like clean, powdery skin, skin that is begging to be caressed. It is an abstract concoction that responds so sensitively to my chemistry that it manages to smell slightly different each time. It is a skin scent whose character is always dry; it never smells sweet, despite its soft jasmine and muguet blend. The musk and iris combine beautifully and feature prominently throughout the development, making it powdery and soft from the beginning. And what makes it most special is the gentle, well-worn suede note that is ever so soothing, as well as tame, which I appreciate, since most strong leathers overwhelm me. Cashmere Mist elicits strange memories in my mind, that play like a fast-forwarded flashback scene in a movie: the Noxema roll-on deodorant my mother used to use when I was a child, a visit at the doctor’s when I was a kid – the scent wafting from the clinically clean female doctor comforting me as she laid a hand on my head, clothes straight out of the dryer on a snowy winter’s morning, fast-forward, fast-forward to pictures constructed from the media, colorful Lacoste polo shirts above tiny, blindingly white tennis skirts on a sunny spring day. The smell that fits innocence before adrenarche... and yet, warm flesh wrapped in a fluffy bathrobe on Sunday morning, a scent worn for one’s lover just to say: “I want to have coffee in bed with you”. I did not mean to turn this review into an exercise of freestyle stream of consciousness method, but somehow I found myself compelled to record the strange associations this fragrance elicits in me. After discovering this perfume, I had to rush out and buy it, I find it so charming and well made. I do not regard it as simple, even though it can appear deceptively so. Some have described it as “mumsy” and “old”. If you agree with this statement but have somehow found yourself stuck with a bottle for one reason or the other, here’s a suggestion: Layer it with a tiny bit of Fracas. The end result is very cheerful.

Picture of Cashmere throw courtesy of www.wise4living.com. The limited edition flacon of Cashmere Mist was sourced from www.donnakaranbeauty.com where it is currently available for purchase, with the designer’s signature.