Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by Prada : Perfume Review

Prada’s newest, Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger is a limited edition fragrance, the first one of what will be a series of yearly limited edition scents falling under the Ephemeral Infusion Collection family. Each year, a new Infusion scent will be launched to the market and will be available for just 4 months. This bit of news leaves me ambivalent. On the one hand the idea is not only very attractive (not to mention it gets the pesky collector bug I’ve lodged inside my heart buzzing), it is also very exciting: A brand new Prada scent to look forward to and to ponder about each year! On the other hand, I find the idea of limited editions rather unappealing in general and tend to look upon them unfavorably. We all know the pain of losing a favorite fragrance due to discontinuation and limited editions are nothing but a fair warning before the pain arrives. I suppose it makes marketing sense: Create a good amount of marketing buzz to get people curious, then have the SAs warn them the scent will be taken out of the market fairly soon, so the customer has an extra incentive (or better said, an actual push) to buy right there and then. But as a fragrance lover, I can’t help but be aware of the pain this can bring to actual fragrance devotees. The better solution? Release the limited editions for four months as planned, and then instead of withdrawing the scent completely, have it offered in Prada boutiques only. It still ‘forces’ the client to buy it as soon as possible, but at least it does not preclude lovers of the scent from ever finding it again. It gives hope if you will, while retaining every bit of the exclusivity. (Are you listening, Prada?)

Now, enough with my limited edition rant and on to the scent itself. Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger is meant to be a descendant of both the original Infusion d’Iris and Prada’s exclusive, boutique-only Fleur d’Oranger and I am happy to say the promise is met on both counts. I can immediately smell the connection with Infusion d’Iris which makes it an excellent flanker in my book. It is as if there is an invisible yet very much tangible thread connecting the two, even though Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger does not sport a trace of iris. (Or at least none discernible to my nose…) Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger makes use of both neroli essential oil (derived by the steam distillation of the bitter orange blossom) and orange blossom absolute (the product of the organic solvent extraction). Neroli is bitter, bracing, fresh, aromatic and utterly summery in nature, while the absolute is much more flowery, erotic, round, narcotic, heady and indolic in nature. A good example of the former would be the recently reviewed Mi Fa (in conjunction with gourmand notes, but still very recognizable) and an excellent example of the latter would be the aforementioned Prada exclusive Fleur d’Oranger. In Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger the absolute and the essential oil interweave in the most beautiful manner. Most of the time they merge, creating a beautiful smooth and round absolute base with a bracing essential oil top, but even more pleasurable are their eclipses, the peek-a-boo games they play with the wearer, when only one of the two is offered to the nose for inspection as the other is withdrawn to the background. Understandably, I am left mesmerized the whole time I am wearing this, since a different aspect of the beautiful perfume becomes salient as the scent wafts around me with each movement. The same soapy, aldehydic smoothness of the original Infusion d’Iris forms the surprisingly strong, pastel-colored backdrop of this perfume, while other white florals (jasmine, tuberose) are but supporting murmurs to the marvelous song of the orange blossom. The tuberose in particular becomes stronger in the drydown, but there is no question that it is the orange blossom that is this year’s limited edition diva.

Images: The beautiful painting (it translates the deafening silence and sense of anticipation of the hottest, midday hours in the summer perfectly in my eyes!), is by Tim Solliday. More of this artist's work can be viewed on the official website here.

Learning to Love Orange Part 2 - Fleur d’Oranger by Prada & 40º à l’Ombre by Satellite : Perfume Reviews

White florals are made for summer: Tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, tiare, ylang ylang, lemon and orange blossom... But while most would probably consider jasmine to be the undisputed queen of white florals in the summer, connected as she is in our collective memories with warm, fragrant summer nights, ever since I managed to find a few orange blossom scents that resonate with me I can’t but disagree. Orange blossom truly embodies the spirit of the season: its joyfulness, its sultriness, its primeval animalistic hunger for life, its warmth, which seems as devastating as Livas, the dry African wind, but most of all, its ardent eroticism whose electrifying waves have the power to set heart and mind ablaze. Today, in part two of our three-part series, we explore two more golden beauties.

Fleur d’Oranger by Prada: I had the chance to fleetingly smell this once a few months ago, and it took only a moment to realize that yes, this was the good stuff. Upon my return from my vacation, I found a little packet hidden under the pile of mail behind the door. A beautiful angel from across the ocean had sent me a sample of this during my absence! I am so glad to have a little sample of this fantastic creation to go through as I deliberate on whether I need a full bottle. Fleurs d’Oranger was launched in 2003 and is scent No.4 in Prada’s exclusive boutique scent collection whose offerings all come in 30ml splash extraits. This one starts out with burning intensity: absolutely beautiful orange blossom streaked with glossy, luscious, honeyed accents of beeswax. Oh yes, it’s indeed as fabulous as it sounds. As time goes by, the beeswax accents unfortunately disappear and the scent looses part of its diffusive intensity while at the same time growing deeper and darker. Teasing fingers of jasmine emerge, caressing a heart of orange blossom, which in turn hugs precious myrrh and amber. This undoubtedly gorgeous scent presents me with a slightly disturbing dichotomy: like a child playing a game of focusing on an object first with just the left eye and then with the right and seeing two different pictures emerge, so am I just as amusingly presented with two different sides of the same coin. Focusing just so, Fleurs d’Oranger is ladylike and restrained... Closing the other eye, so to speak, it becomes carefree and erotic commanding me softly to “ferme tes yeux” with blissful abandon in the arms of my lover.

40º à l’Ombre by Satellite: 40 degrees in the shade. That’d be 104 Fahrenheit, a perfect name for a summer fragrance as I’m sure you’ll agree, but Satellite, predominantly known for their jewelry is also making play on words with this name, referring to 40 carats. And oh how marvelous this is! Absolutely stunning, in fact. Oh, my poor discarded coconut beauties! Ever since I discovered this, I didn’t wear anything else during my vacation. This is a thoroughly natural smelling, high-pitched orange blossom scent, blooming seemingly from inside the colorful zest of bergamot and lemon. It really begs to be worn with light, airy clothes, and to be taken out on a stroll in great weather. As the scent develops, it quietly turns more bitter, finding at its apex the most fabulous grapefruit note I’ve ever smelled. Dry, bitter and sophisticated the beautiful grapefruit scent unfolds in shimmering veils flecked with gold, every movement unveiling another gorgeous facet: whiffs of orange blossom here, accents of jasmine there...and through it all the marvelous undercurrent of something intensely human, yes, a little dirty, like a tiny smidgen of cumin. Oh, my word! This one is truly a gem and an absolute favorite. The best of the Satellite range.

Our Learning to Love Orange series is getting interrupted on Monday for this month’s Perfume for the Occasion, but we resume with part 3 on Wednesday. What is your favorite orange blossom scent by the way? Now that I’ve gotten my feet wet, I am hoping to find more beauties to love and I’m looking for suggestions.

Images: www.sxc.hu and Flickr, originally uploaded by Ashleytheartist2002 and Steven Fernandez

Prada Pour Homme by Prada : Perfume Review

It has been a while since I last reviewed a masculine fragrance here on Fragrance Bouquet, even though several creations, some old and some new have caught my attention since summer. I cannot put off reviewing Prada Pour Homme any longer though, and not just because I’ve somehow ended up smelling it almost daily –either on my own skin or on others- for the last couple of weeks. The truth is, I am currently deeply enamored with it – I find it simply divine. I didn’t really know what to expect from it in the beginning: I didn’t fall in love with the female version and subsequently never actually bothered to smell Prada Tendre. I likely would not have bothered to seek out Pour Homme either, had I not smelled it on a friend who happens to wear it very, very well. Wondering whether it was just a case of good chemistry-perfume fit, I started testing it on my own skin, only to discover I was instantly hooked.

One likely reason I find myself so excited by Prada Pour Homme is that it is a very atypical male scent: It does not resemble any other mainstream fragrance marketed towards men right now. It feels almost as though it quietly mocks every aquatic, citrusy, or overly bracing and invariably yawnfest-inducing male release out there, inviting you to laugh with it, sharing in the joke. This is indeed a fragrance for the self-assured man who does not need to reassert his masculinity, or rather, mask his insecurities through his overly stout, manly scent. Where others insist on announcing their arrival, taking up space, enunciating their presence loud and clear, Prada Pour Homme is content to whisper seductively, inviting others to come closer instead. Gentle woody murmurs, musks, the creamy lather of soap and a smidgen of leather make up this gorgeous fragrance that serves to enhance the wearer’s own chemistry. This effect is so well done, that smelling it on another for the first time, it is hard to know whether what you are smelling is indeed perfume or the man’s natural own skin-scent. To me, its sensual yet slightly aloof scent evokes images of both colors and textures with ease, presenting me with a well constructed, layered outfit of soft grey flannel and silvery silk. The sensory experience gradually extends to bodily sensations...A smoothly shaven cheek, the slightly damp, still steaming from the heat, naked body of a just-showered man. When thinking of these sensations rationally I can’t help but translate them to less romantic, but indeed logical qualities: tender melancholy, intellect, sexiness and perfect grooming. And yes, the jus indeed encompasses all four with ease. Admittedly though, what I love most about it is its soapy muskiness. Now, I am aware the term soapy is not always used in a positive manner when it comes to perfumes, but really, there is absolutely no need to fear it in this context. Yes, Prada Pour Homme is indeed soapy, but its earthy smell of saffron and its infinitely sexy musk base save it from being either safe or overly clean. It is simply yummy and warm, the smell of sweet skin wearing nothing but a thin oriental ribbon.

If you fall in love with this as much as I do, may I also suggest you consider splurging on the shower gel as well? It is simply fabulous. I use it at night and find myself wrapped in its tender, comforting embrace all evening. Furthermore, it is surprisingly long lasting: When I wake up in the morning my shirt is completely infused with the lovely smell – something I’ve never actually experienced with a shower gel before.

Images: www.beadfx.com and www.shaving.philips.com (color adjustments by author)

L’Inspiratrice by Divine : Perfume Review

I am not a patchouli hater. No, I am not. Not anymore, that is. I have long enjoyed patchouli as an accompanying note to complex fragrance blends, but have never been able to stand it as a dominant single note, either in high-end fragrances or in oils. Patchouli to me had been interminably associated with headshops, incense sticks that would make me gag, nausea-inducing candles and cheap oils from Body Shop. Nevermore. Not since L’Inspiratrice came into my life, showing me that patchouli can be affective, eloquent, beautiful, inspiring. L’Inspiratrice is to me everything I wanted Prada to be. I never did manage to love Prada nor did I think any perfume so dominated by patchouli could ever become an instant love. It feels wonderful to be proven wrong. Every time I manage to fall in love with a previously unloved note I feel a weight lifting from my shoulders. Learning to love leather through wonderful creations such as Cabochard, Bandit and Piver’s Cuir de Russie was like leaving a ball and chain behind and walking towards freedom. Learning to love patchouli through L’Inspiratrice, it feels like finally, a pair of shackles that was keeping me bound has been broken. My heart is lifted. Perhaps all this sounds like a hyperbole; after all there is no harm in avoiding certain notes. But for a perfume lover, surely, the sense of freedom one attains once yet another barrier has been broken feels like a true gift.

Despite the fact that L’Inspiratrice is meant to be a marriage between patchouli and rose, to me it is predominantly a patchouli scent. I do not know whether it is a shortcoming of my own senses or the result of such an expert blending process, which makes the rose almost indiscernible to my nose. I, perhaps arrogantly, like to think the latter - imagining that the rose has been given a masterful supporting role, meant only as an enhancer to the wondrous beauty of patchouli, the Diva, the seductress, l’inspiratrice. And if perhaps I can imagine the rose’s presence in the opening – and that only after closing my eyes and inhaling deeply – I certainly lose track of its trail completely as the development of this fragrance progresses. I make a conscious decision to not dwell on any of the supporting notes much; I can only be thankful for the fact that they have managed to embrace patchouli with such finess that I, previously unmoved by its charms have managed to see the light, brought to my knees by its redolent beauty. No other note seems to warrant mention. Would it even matter if I told you that behind its luscious trail my skin is caressed by gorgeous, deep musk and the softest vanilla? No... What seems more important is to speak to you of how it unfolds, occupying a myriad of textures with every secret smile. From the fresh leaves of the plant in my palm, to those very leaves rubbed against hard thick leather; from heavy, dark velvet shielding my bare skin like a cloak, to gossamer blue and orange veils billowing from my form once more after having been put away in a chest filled with those now dry leaves for years and years. But L’Inspiratrice is more than just a story of textures, though even that aspect alone would have been enough to impress. L’Inspiratrice is a woman full of mystery, whose stare is full of enchanting magnetism. Her allure is dark and bewitching, as though her blood itself is hot with the essence of dark magic. And yet despite that, she is elevated above anything even remotely common. Her beauty is no trickery; her sorcery is a golden cage she has constructed for herself. Her exquisite charm is foreboding, leaving lips burning with feverish desire -but it is at once forbidding – her ship will always be flying a touch-me-not banner.

Pictures courtesy of www.purplemoon.com and www.netperles.com