Patchouly by Etro : Perfume Review

Perfumes revolving around the note of patchouli are rightly reserved for the colder months of the year, considering their compelling potency can quickly become too much in warm weather. But if you had to choose one patchouli perfume that would possibly be wearable in the warmer months, which one would it be? For me, it would definitely have to be Etro’s Patchouly, a fragrance that takes nothing away from the glory of the dynamic patchouli, yet presents it in a way that is diaphanous and soft, lending it improbable fragility and grace.

Glowing, warm and alluring, this has all the goodness and flavor of a good patch scent, but only half of the calories. The opening fizzles with bergamot and playful orange-rind-oil sparkles, both acting as a filter, allowing only hints of the dark patchouli to seep through. But this gem won’t be testing the patience of patchouli lovers for too long: Gratification might be suspended for the first few minutes, but suddenly the dams break and a glorious, dark patchouli rushes in like a wave, frothing with shining rose geranium up top. Eagerly, the great patchouli chalice is filled with lashings of pure, dark chocolate and smoky tobacco leaf accents that offer themselves to the skin with impatient, heated urgency. The blend is so magically decadent at this point, and yet so easy on the senses, that it is unbelievably easy to get lost in its depth, forgetting all that’s taking place outside the space of the olfactory world. But is this really the same perfume that I suggested would be a perfect patchouli option for summer? Indeed. Fifteen to twenty minutes after application the (still relatively gentle) beast subsides, rests its head on its front paws and quite unexpectedly rolls over for a belly tickle. From roar to whisper, Patchouly now hugs the skin like the softest of silk Etro Shawls, with powdery accents so gorgeous they might as well have been pearly fairy-dust from the feathers of the brand’s signature Pegasus. Soon, the whole experience becomes a diaphanous veil: The patchouli becomes ever more addictive as it becomes sheer, calling the wearer to nuzzle the skin in order to get closer to its heart. As contradicting as it might sound, the nose will find accents of leather, as light as chiffon. The softest pellucid amber blends together with the most comforting, clean, pearlescent powder notes to create a protective aura around the milky sandalwood that has joined the chorus to round everything off in the most beautiful manner. The effect is gauzy, incredibly dry and gentle, without a hint of a sharp edge in sight. Beautiful!

Images: Patchouly bottle & box via www.shopstyle.com, Etro logo, www.etro.it

Heliotrope : Two Sides of the Same Coin

Opinions seem to be split down the middle when it comes to heliotrope. Some love it and seek its warm, comforting scent, while others hate it with a passion, reporting aversive reactions to it. Rarely are there any indifferent comments to be found when it comes to heliotrope scents. But that is a good thing, isn’t it? Something that sparks such intense emotions, whether these belong to one side of the continuum or the other, is surely worth a second glance!

Heliotrope, otherwise known as tournesol or turnsole, derives its name from its tendency to move with the sun. The many varieties of this plant are popular with gardeners for their heavenly scent. Blooms are most often white or lavender colored, and yes, there is a difference in scent: The purple colored shrubs emit a fragrance most often reminiscent of almondy vanilla or cherry pie, while the ones that bloom in white emit a fragrance which has been likened to baby powder.

My two favorite heliotrope perfumes are Etro’s Heliotrope and L.T. Piver’s Heliotrope Blanc. They are very different, yet both are charming and well made. Etro’s Heliotrope is as straightforwardly close to what people have learned to expect from heliotrope scents as can be. The opening is intensely almondy, instantly reminiscent to me of the bitter-almond essence my mother used to flavor the dough of the traditional baked goodies she used to make for Christmas. The very recognizable, Play-Doh quality that most haters of heliotrope scents despise soon follows, I’m afraid, but for those of us that love the smell this is a good stage, bringing back pleasant memories of innocent childhood play. And true, Play-Doh is not what you want to smell of when you are all dressed up for an evening out... But what about the times when you just want to de-stress at home, or one of these hectic mornings we are all bound to have from time to time? I’ll admit that this youthful reminder has helped me shut the world out a number of times while rushing to do the day’s shopping in the crowded city streets. The drydown is just as wonderfully comforting, or perhaps even more so, with gourmand, cookie-like notes of vanilla that feel warm and tender, enveloping the skin in baked goodness. The only drawback of this scent for me is that lasting power is not its strongest point.

L.T. Piver’s Heliotrope Blanc is definitely my favorite of the two, and I must say, the huge price difference makes this all the more pleasant! Heliotrope Blanc’s almond opening is much creamier than Etro’s, lacking the bitterness of the latter. It feels more natural too: instead of almond essence, I am left envisioning picking a yet unripe almond straight from the tree, still in its velvety green casing. There is a lively freshness to it and a nutty flavor Etro’s offering lacks. Once warmed by the skin the fragrance becomes sweeter and it is this sweetness that I find so attractive. Its character remains soft and gentle however: this is a semi-transparent, loving sweetness that wishes to caress. It never becomes cloying or heavy. Heliotrope Blanc is also gently floral, but while the official notes report jasmine and ylang ylang, I am completely unable to pick them out. These are both heady scents and Heliotrope Blanc is anything but. Instead, its tender floral undertones seem to me just an accent, like a distant memory whose meaning is forgotten, while the emotions related to it remain, making the heart beat a little faster each time a piece of the image’s puzzle floats into consciousness. The drydown combines a baby soft, faintly talcumed effect with a delicate balsamic feel, making it at once comforting and rather sensuous at the same time. I am reviewing the Eau de Cologne, I have to say, but the lasting power is excellent. This is a fragrance that wears close to the skin, but will linger and surround the body for hours.

As always when I review a hard to find fragrance, I offer a sample of Piver’s Heliotrope Blanc to one of the readers. Let me know in a comment if you would like to be entered in a drawing for this large 3ml spray sample.


Images: Photo & Artistic interpretation of Sunflower by Sakis Alexiou, Image of Kourabiedes (the baked sweets I was talking about) and macaroons from Flickr – originally uploaded by l&coolj, image of Heliotrope Blanc bottle from www.piver.com